best way to train for ~50 move sustained overhanging route

5.samadhi wrote:I get "freaked out" easily on overhanging sport routes.

That's a common problem. The good news is that you have a great opportunity to overcome this, and when you do it will help you tremendously. There's a real skill to remain calm and relaxed while hanging form your arms, and it takes practice. ARCing is the best practice for this, but every time you're at the Red you can work on it. Consciously pay attention to your grip and focus on "letting go" as much as possibly; only squeeze as hard as you need to to hang on. Try to keep your arms straight almost all the time, and use your lower body and hips to generate upward motion. Focus on breathing and try to cultivate a relaxed mental state. If these things all sound daunting on lead, it might help to take some toprope burns where you can really calm down and get comfortable on steep terrain.

5.samadhi wrote:So, if I train with 20 move circuits (which is possible by up/down climbing on my wall) and do four reps of that...is that enough for the entire day??? Should I feel VERY worked at the end of 4 sets of 20 move circuit (the same circuit repeated 4 times?)? Or should I still feel somewhat freshish???

I was being overly brief. You should spend a good 45 minutes warming up before your do the interval workout. When I do this workout, I begin with about 10 minutes of ARCing, then I boulder, working up the grades to about one grade above my flash limit, so I've been climbing for a while before I start the interval workout. The interval workout itself is brutal if you have the intensity right. You will feel totally worked and even if you rest for 20 minutes or more, you won;t be able to do anything powerful the rest of the day. So after a long rest, do another 10-20 minutes of ARC cool-down, then whatever "supplemental exercises" you want to do, then call it a day.

5.samadhi wrote:Also, I was having a problem locking off and clipping. I could hang on with both hands to the wall for a LONG time (felt pretty comfortable honestly with good footwork and both hands on). But when I tried to lock off and clip I felt like a timer was running (sometimes like as little as 3-4 seconds before I felt like I would drop off!). Is there any specific way to practice locking off that you would recommend or will this just come with more PE fitness?

This is interesting. I've done Chainsaw but I don't remember any of the moves or clips, but generally speaking you should NOT be locking off to clip. Maybe some of the other folks here who know the route better can back you up if I'm wrong, but normally you can always find a stable, relaxed clipping stance where you can hang with your arms straight. This could mean climbing above the bolt before clipping, or using an extended draw so you can clip from below. This gets back to being comfortable on steep terrain, but seriously, you want to avoid bending your elbows as much as possible. Not only does it waste energy to flex your lock-off muscles, but it seriously worsens the "angle of attack" between the rock and your fingers. In other words, as you lock off higher and higher, the hand hold you're hanging from begins to feel worse and worse, and becomes more desparate to hold onto.

5.samadhi wrote:Also, I was having a problem locking off and clipping. I could hang on with both hands to the wall for a LONG time (felt pretty comfortable honestly with good footwork and both hands on). But when I tried to lock off and clip I felt like a timer was running (sometimes like as little as 3-4 seconds before I felt like I would drop off!). Is there any specific way to practice locking off that you would recommend or will this just come with more PE fitness?

This sounds like you are pulling up to clip the draws when they are above your head? If that is the case climb a move or two further so that you are even with the clip. This allows 2 things, first you don't need to lock off, second you don't have to pull up as much rope to clip, therefore if you fall before you clip it is a shorter fall. Though you did say that you are having trouble getting comfortable on steep climbs so this may come more with getting more comfortable as well. You could possibly be tensing too much to clip because of nerves as well.

Another thing you could do, though it may be hard on shoulders and elbows, would be to do some lock off drills while warming up. Make each move on a route but instead of latching the next hold, hover your hand over it for a 3-5 count before you grab it and repeat, also, not a terrible excise for on0sight climbing where you might be feeling around on the higher hold for purchase.

So I have been doing good the suggested continuous intensity interval training reps. I climb for six minute sets on my ten degree wall with three minute breaks. I am up to six total reps it is quite the workout my forearms get ridiculously pumped and I can barely make the last few moments of each rep.

Question: should I be resting more to get more reps or should I just accept that I can only do six reps atm and try to build from there? Should i lengthen rest time later in workout or is this is counterproductive to stamina building? My goal is ten reps then I will add smaller holds or increase angle of wall.
I know the intensity is there since I couldn't crush a chalk bit in my bag before
the seventh rep so I guessed I was done!

5.samadhi wrote:Question: should I be resting more to get more reps or should I just accept that I can only do six reps atm and try to build from there? Should i lengthen rest time later in workout or is this is counterproductive to stamina building? My goal is ten reps then I will add smaller holds or increase angle of wall.

You should rest more and aim to do 12-15 reps.

LeeAB wrote: second you don't have to pull up as much rope to clip, therefore if you fall before you clip it is a shorter fall.

This is a common misperception. I was taught this and intuitively it seems to make sense. But it isn't true. You WILL end up closer to the ground, but the length of the fall will be the same.

Why? Example:

Say the bolts are 5' apart.

A. You are 3' above the bolt, and fall, you go 6'.

B. You are 3' above the bolt, pull 4' of slack to clip the bolt that is 2' above your knot and fall trying to clip. You have a total of 7' of slack out, you go 3' to the bolt, then 7' of slack, total 10'.

c. You are 3' above the bolt, then climb the additional 2' to clip at your waist, you fall trying to clip. Now you have a total of only 5' of slack out, but are 2' higher above the bolt. You fall 5' to the bolt, plus the 5' of slack. Total fall, 10'.

So the fall distance is the same, but the starting and ending points will be lower for clipping overhead....so if there's a ledge or something down there to hit, or you're at the 2nd or 3rd bolt (groundfall!). And all else equal, it's was easier to clip at your waist.

i always find clipping at my waist kind of awkward though. something about the wrist angle or something. i think it totally depends on the situation. some times it is easiest to reach for a clip from a good stance, sometimes better to climb a bit past and clip.

for me, clipping is often the toughest part of climbing hard. a lot of times i have difficulties finding the most stable position to clip from.

1. climb on the route as much as you can, the stress will decrease as you learn the moves which in turn will help you relax.

2. Wire sections as much as possible. Spend time going up and down a section multiple times so you could climb it in your sleep.

3. If anyone you know has a Treadwall that would be your best possible training surface.

4. Climb it on Top Rope if possible to get it wired with low stress.

5. remember to relax and breathe.

6. Enjoy the process.