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King of Kings roof finish (P-2)
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Lower Hawksbill
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Conventional Warfare T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Diving Board, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Encore T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fat Lady, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gorilla Tactics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Haiku T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hairy Canary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ice Cream Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Jeep's Chimney T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jig Zag T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Kidsmoke T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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King of Kings T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Phantom of the Opera T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Senior Moment T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Space Invaders T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Trundle From Down Under T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Whip-or-will T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Nathan Brown, Brian Espe |
| Page Views: | 1,406 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | nbrown on Jun 22, 2012 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
This is perhaps the steepest climbing at Lower Hawksbill, climbing the series of overhangs up and right of the chain anchor on P-1. It can be done in one pitch (originally done on the FA) but might be better broken up into two to reduce rope drag. It would also be a great way to finish up "Conventional Warfare" by linking it into one long pitch (it's directly above the bolted corner).
The 2 bolts placed into the roof's are monsters (4+ inches deep) that were laboriously hand drilled to make them bombproof, so feel free to take the ride...
P-1 Climb King Of Kings to the anchor and either belay there or move right and slightly down to belay directly below roofs at a gear belay (cams).
P-2 Climb past a bolt in the seam to the roof. Clip another bolt and crank out the series of overhangs past some gear and another bolt to a thank God ledge below the last roof. Hand sized cams protect the last section to the 2 bolt anchor lower off (fixed biners).
The 2 bolts placed into the roof's are monsters (4+ inches deep) that were laboriously hand drilled to make them bombproof, so feel free to take the ride...
P-1 Climb King Of Kings to the anchor and either belay there or move right and slightly down to belay directly below roofs at a gear belay (cams).
P-2 Climb past a bolt in the seam to the roof. Clip another bolt and crank out the series of overhangs past some gear and another bolt to a thank God ledge below the last roof. Hand sized cams protect the last section to the 2 bolt anchor lower off (fixed biners).
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