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Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 6
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Routes in Piton Spire
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Piton D'Or (The Golden Piton) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Cory Fleagle, Aaron Miller, Jason Maurer (8/12/10) |
| Page Views: | 2,249 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Cor on Aug 31, 2010 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This route is on the spire to the climber's left (west) of the Otis Flower Tower.
The spire has been climbed before. I could not find a name for it, so we dubbed it The Piton Spire.
The spire has been climbed before. I could not find a name for it, so we dubbed it The Piton Spire.
Location
This route starts on the left side of the formation on a rock ledge.
Clip the golden piton at the start, and step out right over a void. Gain the dihedral and climb!
After the dihedral/pitch 1, move/walk the belay right until you are under a wide crack looming above. Climb the slabs up to the wide crack/left-facing dihedral. Climb it to a ledge.
Move slightly left to climb more slabs/wide crack/right-facing dihedral to another ledge.
Climb short broken terrain up to the summit ridge, and head right up the ridge to the top.
To descend, rap off summit to notch behind spire (single rope), then a double rope rap into the gully to the east. Scramble down, and make one more single rap to the ground below.
Clip the golden piton at the start, and step out right over a void. Gain the dihedral and climb!
After the dihedral/pitch 1, move/walk the belay right until you are under a wide crack looming above. Climb the slabs up to the wide crack/left-facing dihedral. Climb it to a ledge.
Move slightly left to climb more slabs/wide crack/right-facing dihedral to another ledge.
Climb short broken terrain up to the summit ridge, and head right up the ridge to the top.
To descend, rap off summit to notch behind spire (single rope), then a double rope rap into the gully to the east. Scramble down, and make one more single rap to the ground below.
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