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work out plan?

Original Post
frank bonnevie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 87

does anyone have a actual climbing workout plan? i have looked through the forums and it seems that everyone just says "climb more do more core" but no one has a actual plan of attack. exercise, duration and number of sets.

Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

search "periodization" in the MP forums or "periodization training for climbing" on google and you'll get some good stuff.

I'm lazy as hell though and get easily lost with those types of programs. It seems easy to lose track of where in the cycle you are.

I've been loosely following this "fit for fall" program for the last month or so and recommend it for the moderate (5.10 - 5.12) climber who is looking to get stronger. It's basically just a month broken down into day to day routines that one could theoretically repeat each month.

Also, climb more and do more core.

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Hangboard - single max hangs 3 grips, 3 sets each grip 8 second per "set" (subtract or add weight), core work (whatever will help if you do nothing)
Wednesday: Active rest (cardio HIT intervals)
Thursday: Hangboard - repeaters 3 grips, 2 sets each grip 6 reps of 7 sec on/5 sec off (this will be much less weight than max hangs), core
Friday: Active rest (cardio - intervals HIT
Saturday: Climb outside - hard redpoint
Sunday: climb outside - easier onsight/mileage

5.samadhi Süñyātá · · asheville · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

You could also drop the repeaters and do bouldering at the gym where you could do 4x4s. 4x4s are probably better than hangboard repeaters for power endurance. Since they are more specific.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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