Angryoldclimber wrote: Hey Derek Wasn't it you who removed the bolt hangers from the new anchor on this climb? Pretty sure you did it because you wanted to continue to kill that tree and make people drag a static line to set up the anchor. You moved the hangers to Paradox because climbing 5.11 is more important than climbing a 5.7 thats sees far more traffic and less experienced climbers like tradude5five. That was a smart choice with safety and conservation in mind wasn't it?
First, this will be my one and only reply on line. If after reading it you still have a problem, I'm happy to discuss it face to face. It's not as though I'm especially hard to find in our small local community. What I won't do is engage in an intraweb pissing contest, especially with someone not using their actual name.
With that said, you're partially correct. Yes, I removed the hangers and quicklinks (one link on each bolt, making for lovely rope twists when pulling your cord, but I digress) from the 5.7 corner. I did so by hand, by the way, since neither the nuts nor the links had been properly tightened. One of the links was a single thread away from open.
The primary reason that I removed the hangers was that the anchor is thoroughly unnecessary, and a static rope is certainly not required to rig a TR. Nor is going anywhere near the admittedly eroded top out of the climb. An anchor can be easily rigged with nothing more than a cordalette placed high on a huge tree. You know, just like the rap anchor that pulls so smoothly. In fact I did just that twice this past weekend. The other reason I removed the hangers is that for folks who choose to lead the climb, the anchor was placed essentially right in the middle of the final crux of the route, in close proximity to excellent protection in sound rock.
While we're on the subject, I didn't remove the studs and patch the holes because I don't presume to be the conscience of the local climbing community, or the enforcer of its standards and norms. If I get the sense that there is good consensus that folks want that anchor to remain, while I firmly disagree, I will not stand in the way. I left the studs to see what sort of reaction would be forthcoming for that very reason. I see no reason to damage the rock while this sort of thing is sorted out. Your anonymous internet post was the first negative comment I've received. I have however heard many voices of approval. Maybe that will change. We'll see.
Regarding the anchor on Paradox, yes, I placed it. I did so because there is no viable alternative there, and I was tired of watching folks blithely lowering off the Against the Grain anchor, completely oblivious to the potential hazard doing so entailed. If you don't know what I'm referring to, you're part of the reason I placed the Paradox anchor.
As for your contention that the relative grades of the climbs had anything to do with my actions, you're mistaken. I think the 5.7 corner is a fabulous route, every bit as worthy as Paradox. If we knew one another, you'd know that I've always been far more interested in quality than difficulty. I climb and enjoy both routes with regularity.
Finally, regarding your accusation that the hangers from the 5.7 corner were used in the Paradox anchor, there too you're mistaken. Go look for yourself. The hangers I removed were (if memory serves) Mammut. The hangers I used on the Paradox anchor are Fixe, like almost every bolt I've placed in Bolton the last 15+ years. Maybe you've even clipped a few of them. The hangers and quicklinks removed from the 5.7 corner are still in my car, and I'll happily return them to their rightful owner if s/he contacts me directly. I'd welcome the chance for a friendly dialog. Maybe it could address the poorly positioned convenience anchor on the Rose too, but that's another story!
That's all I have to say on the matter here. Again, I'm not hard to find. If you want to chat further, look me up or say hello out at the crags. But stop hiding behind the anonymity of an online handle if you want me to take you seriously.
Cheers,
Derek