Is Camden Hills worth a trip?

I'll be in Maine next week, about an hour from Camden Hills. I don't climb trad yet, so Acadia is out (not interested in fighting the crowds at Otter Cliffs). Looks like there are some sport and a few top rope climbs at CH.

Is it worth spending a day there? I'm not expecting a Red River Gorge experience, only to get in a climb or two. Looks kind of promising from the MP info. Any first hand experience?

Don't just pass up climbing at Acadia like that! I went last summer on a busy holiday weekend(saturday even) and had the place to ourselves for a few hours before the crowds came in. Even than it wasnt that bad. Just get there early.

Travis, where did you go? Precipice? Otter Cliffs?

I did a few routes there one day, it was 2 out of 4 stars. Good rock, nice views, seemed safe enough. Nothing to write home about but good for a day or two for sure.

If you have gear for setting up anchors and dont need to use the supplied anchors at Otter than its totally fun even on a weekend. The precipice was great as well.

Camden: spent a day or three there, I don't recall seeing much/any toprope or sport climbing. Lots of easy/moderate trad.

Acadia: You're out of luck at Precipice without a rack. However, hit the Otter Cliffs at sunrise and enjoy a few hours before the crowds come - then hit Sand Beach or take a hike, that place has some of the best hill walking around.

If you're an hour south of Camden hills they're alright for the trip. If you're near NH bust still in Maine just go to Shell Pond or Shagg Cragg, the guidebook North Conway Rock Climbs by Jerry Handren covers them and can be picked up at EMS.

If you're an hour north of Camden hills you'll have better luck toproping at Acadia. Camden isn't much fun if you don't like trad.

For the best in Maine though, head to Clifton. Some of the routes need trad gear but most of it is sport, and it is AMAZING. the guidebook can be picked up at Acadia Mountain Guides in Bar Harbor or at Alpenglow in the Orono area (Bangor).

Clifton is the shit though, head there if you want to have an amazing time. Especially if you've climbed in the red, it's the greatest unknown sport climbing area in the north east. PM me if you have any more questions.

We climbed at otter cliffs. You can set up a few top rope anchors off of their "staples" and bolts. Definitely worth it imo!

Thanks so much for the info, everyone. I should have mentioned that I'll be in Blue Hill, which is pretty close to Clifton. I'll be hiking in Acadia so I'll stop by Acadia Moutain Guides to pick up the book.

Morning Glory wall at Great Head has some moderate routes which can be TR'd...

Hey Jonathan,

That's awesome that you'll be in Blue Hill, you've got to check out Clifton then. I used to live in Castine and it was only a 35-40 minute drive for me and my friends to get out to Clifton. Pretty near the cliffs is Alpenglow in Bangor which sells the guidebook. It's where Ward Smith and his crew cut their teeth before they went on to Rumney.

I don't want to proselytize too strongly but you'll be really pleased if you go to Clifton, it's the best climbing in that part of the state, and no lines anywhere. You'll love it man. There are literally hundreds of routes to climb, all grades, single pitch, top rope, multipitch, etc... and so many boulders, most still awaiting FAs.

It's a downeast mecca.

Just across the border from Calais Me, there's a Sport Crag called Greenlaw. Aout 40 well bolted sport routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.12+ on nice basalt rock. Its located neer St-Andrews NB. For more info check out ClimbeasternCanada.com or get a copy of Dom Caron's (brand new as of a few weeks ago) guide book.

www.climbnbguide.com

steitz wrote:Hey Jonathan, That's awesome that you'll be in Blue Hill, you've got to check out Clifton then. I used to live in Castine and it was only a 35-40 minute drive for me and my friends to get out to Clifton. Pretty near the cliffs is Alpenglow in Bangor which sells the guidebook. It's where Ward Smith and his crew cut their teeth before they went on to Rumney. I don't want to proselytize too strongly but you'll be really pleased if you go to Clifton, it's the best climbing in that part of the state, and no lines anywhere. You'll love it man. There are literally hundreds of routes to climb, all grades, single pitch, top rope, multipitch, etc... and so many boulders, most still awaiting FAs. It's a downeast mecca.

Steitz, you're way overhyping Clifton. I've climbed a few times at Eagles Bluff, Park`s Pond and Big Chick and it`s OK at best.
Nothing wrong with you loving the place that much but I'm warning others reading this that I think it`s not that good...The only awesome thing about Clifton is you may get to shoot Don Nelligan (the owner) `s shotgun...

Don just passed away, btw. It's a bummer, he was young.

Wow, really? that sucks! He was a great guy.

Yeah, it's really too bad.

Sounds good. I've talked to the folks at Alpenglow and will stop in when I get to maine.

Thanks again

Check out Clifton, ME, too. I stayed in searsport for a week last summer an hit Clifton, Camden, and Acadia an Clifton was definitely a spot I'll head to again. I'm not sure there's a guidebook for it beyond rock climbing New England.

Given your query, from Blue Hill Clifton is better and closer than Camden.

Wanted to post an update. I spent an afternoon at Clifton with my daughters last week. On the recommendation of someone at Alpenglow, we went to Eagle Bluff. Rumney it's not, but it was a nice hike in, the rock was good to climb on, and the routes were pretty good. You'll definitely want to pick up a copy of the guidebook, which is helpful. It's more or less a large pamphlet, but it describes the routes well. No photos, but the line drawings are well done.

Family obligations kept me from making a return trip, but I will certainly head back the next time I'm in the neighborhood.