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tricams for Serenity Crack p1?

Original Post
Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Hi:

Wanting to check out Serenity-Sons in September...I saw some people on this site mentioning using hybrid cams on pitch one of Serenity with variable success. I'd prefer to avoid buying one or more of the bigger offsets that apparently would be needed, because I doubt I'd get much use out of them in my usual climbing.

Has anyone had good luck with tricams on that pitch, and if so what sizes? 1.5-2?

Cheers,
David

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
John Wilder wrote:i doubt it- i remember not being able to get anything that i'd fall on in before the bolt that used to be there, and right next to that bolt was a bomber green camalot placement. fwiw, i'm a total scaredy cat most days and the first pitch is probably 5.8 to that point (except the first 3 feet which is hardish)- its really no big deal getting to good gear on that pitch.
Thanks John!
Ryan Kempf · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 371

No tri-cams. Offset master cams or aliens would be nice. That said its totally possibly without. The 1st couple moves off the deck are kinda blank, but you get up into pin scars really quick. The old bolt has been chopped. The 1st set of scars that take gear are .75 or #1 size and really flared about 25ft off the deck (not a great placement). Shortly after that you can get a bomber #2 and the gear is solid after that. If you are really concerned about protecting the start (and don't wanna buy offset cams) I would take a set of DMM offset alloy wires and/or some larger offset brass.

You can see where the scars get larger under Patrick.

Serenity Crack P1

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450
Ryan Kempf wrote:No tri-cams. Offset master cams or aliens would be nice. That said its totally possibly without. The 1st couple moves off the deck are kinda blank, but you get up into pin scars really quick. The old bolt has been chopped. The 1st set of scars that take gear are .75 or #1 size and really flared about 25ft off the deck (not a great placement). Shortly after that you can get a bomber #2 and the gear is solid after that. If you are really concerned about protecting the start (and don't wanna buy offset cams) I would take a set of DMM offset alloy wires and/or some larger offset brass. You can see where the scars get larger under Patrick.
Oh, cool...I've got a some HB offsets, as well as a yellow/blue Offset Mastercam, and as folks are saying it doesn't seem like the climbing is TOO heinous, so sounds like it'll work out. Thanks!
Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

That was the only place in the Valley I found tricams useful. But other stuff works too.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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