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Apr 20, 2015
Always belay from the base of the crack.
I made the tactical error of belaying from the seat on the tree down low, and when the lead climber pitched out of the crux...with that big-ass #5 gripped tightly in his right hand...the combination of rope stretch, distance above his last pro, and loop caused him to drop down on to the lower angled initial section of the crack, and he took a pretty good hit there.
I vowed never again to set myself that far from the base of this route again. He was OK, but banged up enough to call it a day...and he never dropped that cam!