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Chimney Peak from the approach trail.
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View from a scramble around the west side of Chimney Rock. This would be a Hell of a place to hand drill but may be worth the effort. There is a lot of good stone here, and there is some that is bad. However, it is dumbfounding that there are only a scant few routes on this crag.
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By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 8, 2013

No kidding, Richard. This place is one of many premier areas in the San Juan Mountains where there's a huge plethora of new route possibilities.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 8, 2013

It seems to me that for this irregular conglomerate if the cement base will hold a bolt, then the possibilities become limitless. When Anna I checked out the South Chimney (did not climb it!!), it was none too impressive. But, there is a lot of rock on this formation that does have a very solid base that could be bolted. Chimney Rock lies within the Uncompahgre Wilderness, and from what I can determine, bolts, but not power drills, can be used. Cimarron Ridge and Turret Ridge lie in the National Forest where there is no restriction on power drills. The possibilities for absolutely stunning, multi-pitch climbing on bolts is very attractive.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Aug 9, 2013

You might check with Jimmy Newberry in Cimarron, I know that he and a number of partners have worked on that thing. I went up there in the late '70s with some partners, and we didn't have a bolt kit. There looked like there might be a line that would go with slinging some of those cobbles, we didn't have the stones to do it. I know Bob Dickerson has been up a couple of routes on it, one with Jimmy, and he said that slinging the cobbles in that volcanic ignimbrite were good, but consider the source. This is a guy that free solo'd Bridalveil 4 or 5 times.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 10, 2013

Bolts or a few slings. Not much choice in my opinion. I did look around for a slings with knots type of Elbsandstein approach, but the rock is just not conducive. Holes drilled for removable bolts would work for pitches but not rap stations, and it seems a bit lame. It also invites wasps. If we are considering the big faces and not the crumbling chimneys, then there is just not much choice. But bear in mind that this is would not look like the Sport Park. It would be adventure climbing in the wilderness, way off the deck, with bolts for pro, not unlike the ring bolts used in the Dresden sandstone. Cahones and bolts.

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View from a scramble around the west side of Chimney Rock. This would be a Hell of a place to hand drill but may be worth the effort. There is a lot of good stone here, and there is some that is bad. However, it is dumbfounding that there are only a scant few routes on this crag.

Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 6, 2013
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