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Devils Tower - Rappels on North Side?

Original Post
Steve123 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 90

I am familiar with the rappel routes down from the summit of Devils Tower on the South side. I am not finding any information about rappel routes on the North side. If I summit from one of the popular routes on the North-East (e.g. Assembly line), and leave a pack at the base, can I rappel back to the general area of where I started or do I have to descend the South side and hike back around?

Sean Nelb · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Apr 2007 · Points: 470

There are three rappel routes on the north side. All of them require a downclimb, go through loose rock, or have a huge stuck-rope potential. Many people opt to just rap the south or west sides. All raps require two ropes.

The first rap is just left of Assembly Line, and has some fairly easy-to-find anchors. This is the rappel mentioned in the Extreme Angles guidebook. DO NOT USE THIS RAPPEL. It leads you down dirty routes with sketchy anchors, there is a good potential to get your rope stuck and have to aid up to retrieve it. Even if everything goes well, it dumps you into large poison ivy patches at the base.

The second rappel, recommended in the Guilmette guide, is to rap Maid in the Shade. These anchors are down and right of Assembly Line, and are visible from the top, but hard to spot. They require some 4th class downclimbing to get to them. There is some loose rock on the first rap. The second rap takes you to Teachers Lounge and is fine. The major problems with this rappel is finding it and potentially kicking off loose rock onto parties below.

The third rappel is McCarthy North. This one is actually pretty good, except that unless you climbed the route, the anchors are really hard to find. They require about 40 ft or so of downclimbing 4th class. Once you get to the anchors, the rock is pretty solid and the raps are fine.

Good luck

Steve123 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 90

Thank you. That is exactly the sort of information that I was looking for.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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