Trad shoe recommendations other than TC Pro

I'm looking to get a pair of shoes for all-day multipitch trad outings. I currently climb in LS Katana Laces, which I love. The fit it pretty aggressive, though, and it's hard to go more than a couple pitches without taking them off. Even with breaks, a full day in them, while possible, is brutal.

Based on what I plan to climb, suitability for jamming in >= hand cracks is key. Decent edging performance is a requirement, too.

I know the TC Pro are loved by many. Sadly, though, my feet are just a bit too big for the largest size (47).

Does anyone have any other recommendations?

Thanks!

katana velcro ... if they fit yr foot

as a bonus you take it off between pitches on multi easily

;)

Give the TC pros a try on if you haven't had them on your foot. I have a massive foot and I'm able to fit into a 45.5 pretty well. I generally wear a street shoe size 13 or 14. The TCs definitely stretch (slowly) so if the fit is close they'll wear in pretty well.

I wear an Anasazi Verde in a size 12 for a snug fit if that gives you an idea. You might also consider Anasazis as a trad shoe. They don't have the ankle protection, but they're affordable and after a couple weeks they fit like a damn glove.

1) Miura
2) Anasazi VCS
3) Maybe Mythos or Moccasym

TC Pro are my favorite shoe by far. Sucks you can fit them.

I've been liking the Evolv Astroman. Not sure if they'll have them that large, but, try street shoe size. Try to size down, and you will be sad.

I really like red chili spirits. the're kind of neutral- not super downturned, but not totally flat either.
I have katanas as well and I would never use them on a route with a lot of jams. But I've sized mine quite small, so grain of salt.

I really like red chili spirits. the're kind of neutral- not super downturned, but not totally flat either.
I have katanas as well and I would never use them on a route with a lot of jams. But I've sized mine quite small, so grain of salt.

Go a 1/2 size bigger Katana Laces (if they make them that big) I love these shoes sized for a bit of comfort. It sounds like your current pair is just a little too tight for all-day use, which isn't always a bad thing. I am convinced that my level of performance is not noticeably affected by tight vs. comfort sized shoes (possibly a letter grade either way, sometimes I feel like comfort shoes outperform "performance" fit especially in trad settings where feet swell and dramatically decrease performance in TIGHT shoes.

There's also the Acopa JB.

I absolutely love my 5.10 Grandstones. Good edges, great smearing, and high top so they protect my ankles when I sloppily jam them in cracks as I thrash about a 5.8 lol. You can get them pretty cheap as well, and they are comparable to the TC pros.

Evolv Astroman. Took about 50 pitches to stretch in, but are now perfect. Sort of like a Mythos with some high top action.

Can't beat FiveTen Moccasyms for crack climbing. I up size mine for comfort on longer outings and don't feel like doing so sacrifices performance.

Five Ten Newtons and Huecos are both excellent trad shoes. You also could try trimming the tips of your toes so TC pros fit.

Nathan Scherneck wrote:Can't beat FiveTen Moccasyms for crack climbing. I up size mine for comfort on longer outings and don't feel like doing so sacrifices performance.

They don't edge squat though. Scarpa Technos supposedly edge well, but they have discontinued them and newer model is not out yet. You may also try Mythos - they're good "smedging" shoes, and you can size them down pretty aggressively, at least 2 sized down from your street shoe size, so you may find a pair that you can squeeze into in.

Grandstones are one of my favorite, but are now off the market and only for sale at a few sites, in a few odd sizes.

If you have a pair sitting around in a size 10 toss me a PM.

i picked up the stoneland lace ups for all day trad....i'm not hating them

Muira lace ups. Edge well, jam well, and are comfortable for 8-10 pitch days, even when sized small enough to climb hard (for me) in.

Love my Evolv Astroman's. Have logged about 5000 ft in them so far.

DrApnea wrote:Grandstones are one of my favorite, but are now off the market and only for sale at a few sites, in a few odd sizes. If you have a pair sitting around in a size 9-9.5 toss me a PM.

Pm'd I have a pair of size 9 or check out my post in the FS forum. Wish I could find a pair in 9.5-10 pm if you have one laying around. Also have a pair of la sportiva tradmasters that have been good to me but no ankle coverage.

You might want to check out the 5.10 Galileo if they make them big enough. They're my all around go-to shoe, i can wear them for hours no problem, and they're still solid performers. They're like a stiffer anasazi with a more relaxed heel. (you've gotta be OK with a stiff shoe) Recommend them street shoe size to half a size bigger. I'm typically a 11.5, but wear those in a 12.

DrApnea wrote:Grandstones are one of my favorite, but are now off the market and only for sale at a few sites, in a few odd sizes. If you have a pair sitting around in a size 9-9.5 toss me a PM.

Once it's time to replace my grandstones I'm going to give these a shot.

fiveten.com/products/footwe…