Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
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Shared By: | A Miller on Oct 26, 2006 |
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Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Location
This is the right most crack on the headwall. To start, ascend to Observatory Ledge via several options. Climb Space Shuttle to the anchors, then up another 15' to the Observatory Ledge right anchors. Alternatively, look for a wide crack (10-) just left of Space Shuttle which might be a bit dirty or loose. Follow this pitch to ledges and traverse up and right to a nice 2 bolt belay above a large block stance the furthest right on the Observatory Ledge. Choose the right most belay for Luna Lumina.
From here, up and right through two bolts to the slab, then up to a thin crack just off the arete. Good mix of face and tips up great rock.
As of 2010, there are some bolts from Skyline Arete that have impinged on this route and are somewhat clippable from the crack. The first ascent party did not use these bolts to climb this crack free and so you shouldn't either. But the pucker-factor may sway you to the dark side once you are into the tips-madness. These bolts may be adjusted in the near future to keep us all honest.
From here, up and right through two bolts to the slab, then up to a thin crack just off the arete. Good mix of face and tips up great rock.
As of 2010, there are some bolts from Skyline Arete that have impinged on this route and are somewhat clippable from the crack. The first ascent party did not use these bolts to climb this crack free and so you shouldn't either. But the pucker-factor may sway you to the dark side once you are into the tips-madness. These bolts may be adjusted in the near future to keep us all honest.
Luna Lumina (see route 19 on photo)
A tips splitter on upper headwall to the right of Goodnight Moon. Beautiful tips climbing through multiple sustained cruxes with an airy face traverse left where the first crack tapers.
To reach Observatory Ledge, climb Space Shuttle to anchors, then up another 15' feet to Observatory Ledge-Right anchors. From here, the climb heads up right past 2 bolts on steep terrain to thin tips crack and face climbing.
To reach Observatory Ledge, climb Space Shuttle to anchors, then up another 15' feet to Observatory Ledge-Right anchors. From here, the climb heads up right past 2 bolts on steep terrain to thin tips crack and face climbing.
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