The direct black face variation to the Lower Exum Ridge. July 2013

All Locations > Wyoming > Grand Teton NP > Grand Teton > Lower Exum Ridge (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

The direct black face variation to the Lower Exum Ridge. July 2013

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Keen Butterworth ops for the harder direct option straight up the Black Face (5.10-?). Spectacular!

Yet another view of the black wall pitch. Dale Navish enjoying great conditions on the Lower Exum in August 1989

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Mike McMahon

Jul 11, 2013

“The direct black face variation to the Lower Exum Ridge. July 2013”

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Nearby Photos

View of the Exum Ridge from the Lower Saddle on the Grand Teton.

Some fellow climbers were nice enough to send me this photo of myself near the top of the black face pitch.

Cue spotlight on the Full Exum Ridge
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(except the very last quarter + the summit can't be seen - this is a false summit . . . a real asshole move on the mountain's part, I might add)

Robert Henderson starting the Black Face (p5)

brendan levine on the black face, september 13, 2015

I know of no better photo or topo that shows the route better than this one. There is a similar above, but this is more complete. All 6 pitches can be seen.

Starting up the Black Face, June 2011 (who brings a chalk bag alpine climbing?!?!?!)

on the ridge

Following on the Black Face pitch.

End of the exposed Black Face Pitch

Topo to approach ramp.

Route Overlay Lower Exum and Gold Face.

Jim LaRue leading the arete variation to pitch 6.

Shan following up the stellar Black Face Pitch of the Lower Exum Ridge. July 2021

Red is the correct approach ledge to the chimney of P1. Yellow is an alternative approach that adds 1/2 pitch.

Looking down p1, the chockstone chimney.

The Exum Ridge (sunlit ridge on the right). The Enclosure is the peak to the left, and the Upper Saddle is the saddle between them.

Just another photo of the Exum Ridge from the Lower Saddle. The Chockstone Chimney (pitch 1) can be seen near the bottom of the ridge at the sun/shade line between the main wall and the detached pinnacle.

Start of ramp for final approach to Lower Exum. Significant cairn here as of 8/12/23.

Top of pitch 1

Cold and wet day on the Teton

A view of the Petzolt with the famous "window pitch" from the Exum.

Finishing up the black face pitch

Warren discovering the awkward crack on pitch 6. I thought this was the crux of the route.

Keen Butterworth ops for the harder direct option straight up the Black Face (5.10-?). Spectacular!

The direct black face variation to the Lower Exum Ridge. July 2013

Yet another view of the black wall pitch. Dale Navish enjoying great conditions on the Lower Exum in August 1989

George Bell on the Black Face (pitch 5)

Looking at P3+P4

The first pitch, where you can either follow the chimney on the left, or climb the face of the right as Warren is doing.

The lower saddle seen from The Moraines. As of 7/3/16 this was too sketchy for me and my partner as we didn't have crampons. We saw two people slide off near the high point of the snowy traverse the evening prior. Also, the fixed lines were not in - the ones from last year were in place (we believe) and looked very ratty.

Jim LaRue in P4 chimney.

Me starting on P3. Generally made my way straight up to the "Black Roof" and traversed out right and around at the white rock.

Dan low on the Lower Exum Ridge as sunlight hits the Middle Teton

Jonny on the Black Face. Photo by Brett Barrett.

Awkward P4 traverse below the V-Slot pitch

Final rap to the lower saddle on the OS descent. Full 70m and a blast!

The crimpy V-slot pitch before the Black Face

Looking up at the belayer from the bottom of the black face pitch.

From the big ledge at the top. The last two pitches linked-up makes the hike worth it.

Pitch 4 chimney, June 2011

Looking down at the belay below the black face

The route above P2. Slabs, V-slot pitch, Black Face, climbers above the Black Face on the off-balance hand crack pitch.

Lower Exum Ridge

Carl Page leading P3 face after the left leaning crack. It's easy to combine P3+4.

The Caves bivy in Garnet Canyon the day before we climbed the Lower Exum Ridge. 1982

Dale Navish on the upper Exum in August 1989. We had almost no beta for the 'direct' but seemed to find our way w/o any major epic.

The uneven hand crack above the Black Face, just below Wall Street ledge.

Looking down the steep black face pitch. One of the best 5.7 pitches anywhere. The holds are all there.

Middle Teton in the background after finishing pitch 2?? Very windy day!!

Base of the Chockstone Chimney, enjoying a beautiful sunrise over the Middle Teton.

Just after finishing the Lower at the base of the Upper!

Warren at the start of the 3rd pitch.

Mike following up the Black Face Pitch

another shot of the Black face pitch

Freezing our asses off on the second pitch.

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