Young William
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British R
Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
FA: | Ted Stryker, John Ford (1987) |
Page Views: | 2,125 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Mar 10, 2006 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Wonderfully subtle face climbing on marginal holds--you must have mastered this surface to hold-on. Simply "visionary."
This route climbs the face 8 feet right of the SY-classic "Vanishing Flakes." Climb past a mangled lead bolt without hanger and up to the second bolt of Flakes. Give your feet a break on a small ledge before stepping up and right on a blank face.
Finish on the upper half of Rockoco.
Mostly a top-rope or a solo.
This route climbs the face 8 feet right of the SY-classic "Vanishing Flakes." Climb past a mangled lead bolt without hanger and up to the second bolt of Flakes. Give your feet a break on a small ledge before stepping up and right on a blank face.
Finish on the upper half of Rockoco.
Mostly a top-rope or a solo.
Protection
I have not led the lower face (ie the crux) of this route. I can say from a distance that the only pro on the bottom 40 feet is 1 bolt (the second bolt of Vanishing Flakes).
Gear: 1-2 inches for the 5.5 crack above, which is shared with Rockoco & Flakes.
Two 1/2" wedge bolts with chains for a top-anchor (shared with Rockoco and Flakes).
Gear: 1-2 inches for the 5.5 crack above, which is shared with Rockoco & Flakes.
Two 1/2" wedge bolts with chains for a top-anchor (shared with Rockoco and Flakes).
Photos
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