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Best and worst: 9.4 to 9.9mm

Frosty Weller · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2004 · Points: 1,145

Another +1 for the BW 9.4 Dominator (70m bi-color double dry).

One of the best ropes I have had in 30 years of climbing. Great do it all rope and is my first choice from sport to multi-pitch trad and alpine rock/ice. Plus it's sexy. (Some desert stuff, aid, and places like The Black not so much... but sexy doesn't matter there.)

As I am about due for a replacement and it would suck to have these discontinued, but am also curious as why and with what they would be replacing it with.

If anyone knows where to pick up a deal on these before they are gone it would be appreciated. (A quick check on BC.com shows they are out of stock there.)

Dave · · Tahoe City · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 200

I'm currently on my SIXTH Mammut Infinity 9.5 mm x 70 m for use specifically for multi-pitch trad routes. In 30+ years of climbing I've never used a finer handling rope.

Jason Blevins · · Burlington, NC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 125
Frosty Weller wrote:Another +1 for the BW 9.4 Dominator (70m bi-color double dry). One of the best ropes I have had in 30 years of climbing. Great do it all rope and is my first choice from sport to multi-pitch trad and alpine rock/ice. Plus it's sexy. (Some desert stuff, aid, and places like The Black not so much... but sexy doesn't matter there.) As I am about due for a replacement and it would suck to have these discontinued, but am also curious as why and with what they would be replacing it with. If anyone knows where to pick up a deal on these before they are gone it would be appreciated. (A quick check on BC.com shows they are out of stock there.)
Sorry, I my typing/ spelling is bad, I dont spend time writing perfect post! I talked with Bluewater, and thhey DID, discontinue the 9.4 Dominator...Because, they were having a hard time getting the thread that was specially used for the dominator...It was also more expensive, but oviously though as nails...That must be why the 9.4 Doninator could boast such numbers ( 7 single falls, 16 twin falls at 55grams per meter) and why the cost so much more!!! There are some climbing sites that have some 9.4 Donimator left, on sale but few left! I order 2 new 70 double dry 9.4 Dominators, before thier gone and got them at a great price! I had to have them sent over to Bluewater to get a 70m d.dryed... but looking forward to getting them, even though I had not planned on buying a rope this year...but have want this rope for a year now and it was my last chance to get them!!! Once there gone, there gone!!! Like my 3rd edition of NC Kelley's Climbers guide! I tryed to buy a new one to have a backup, and they quit making and now cost like $3,000 for a new one, crazy! If I can help more let me know! wish you all great climbing!
Jason Blevins · · Burlington, NC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 125
SirChips-A-Lot wrote:^^^^Jason, punctuation, for the love of Gawd. The run-on sentences are killing me. Good information, but christing hayle impossible to read without gaining a real splitter of a headache... BW 9.4s are the shit. Really surprised they're discontinuing them. Know a bunch of sportos who swear by that rope for working as well as redpointing, I've had a couple that lasted forever and took a ton of falls like champs. Bluewater: love/hate award? Gimme a break. One person needs therapy after finding out that nylon is not a magic regenerative substance and that ropes do get old and wear out, eventually, and suddenly an entire company's product line is in question? I had a brand new Sterling wear out in less than a week and got less menstrual. Tampons, ladies. Tampons.
Sorry, not geat typer. But, thanks for complinmet! Accually, you are right...rope will wear out! But, some tougher and better than others in my opinion! Thought I would let you know that the B.W. 9.4 Dominator was made of a hard to get, expensive thread...thats why Bluewater's Manger/Owner (now Chris, Dick's son) said they Discontinued it...they replaced it with a B.W. (9.1 Icon), which is a good rope with numbers of Diameter: 9.1mm
Grams Per Meter: 55
Impact Force: 8.8 kN
UIAA Falls Held: 5
Static Elongation: 7.2%
Dynamic Elongation: 32.7%
Sheath Slippage: -3mm
Sheath Mass: 35%
I don't know what the Twin fall rating is, blue sure Bluewater does! I have had my B.W. 10.5 Accelerators, for over 10years and 1 is like new, other has little sheath wear..no lead falls on them yet..but lots of tope-roping falls and no core damage(I use CMI Pulley, top-roping to extend rope life!)...I store them inside and wash when needed, use tumble washers ONLY and Hang dry(not in sun)...I was told that B.W. Ropes will last as long as you care for them right, but will repalced when needed( 11 lead falls or even more important if sheath wears near core)...This is what I found out from the formost Dynamic Rope Expert! Also, have 2 friend that have the 10.5 Accelerators and love em!!! I just wanted something lighter for leading, that why I got 2 B.W. 9.4 Dominators! Best wishes and climbing!
redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
Zirkel wrote:I'm currently on my SIXTH Mammut Infinity 9.5 mm x 70 m for use specifically for multi-pitch trad routes. In 30+ years of climbing I've never used a finer handling rope.
Another +1 for the Infinity. I have one of Mammut's newer Climax 9.6 that I use for cragging that is also very nice if you want a cheap budget skinny. Got is for $120 on sale a while back
Aaron Bugh · · Bozeman, MT · Joined May 2011 · Points: 500

Best: New England Glider 9.9
Worst: Edelwiess Energy 9.4

DuncanKL · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

I hate to complicate things, but I hate my Mammut Tusk 9.8. It's very stiff even after a good deal of use, and is phenomenally effective at picking up dirt (or anodizing, or something... at any rate, it's not pretty any more). I think Petzl ropes handle the best, but I wish they would make a bi-weave.

Chris G. · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 130
commiebob wrote:I'm a big fan of the Mammut Tusk 9.8mm It comes in a 70m too! rei.com/product/799208
+2
Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

I don't think it matters too much. I buy whatever is on sale and has the specifications that I'm looking for. In 35 years of climbing I've had lots of really good ropes and only a few that I didn't like. Maybe I just don't pay enough attention.

Jason Blevins · · Burlington, NC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 125
redlude97 wrote: Another +1 for the Infinity. I have one of Mammut's newer Climax 9.6 that I use for cragging that is also very nice if you want a cheap budget skinny. Got is for $120 on sale a while back

sounds good, but one place I I'll spend money is on my ropes. I buy my ropes, directly from the manufactuer...not from websites or stores, where you never know what's happed to them! But, you can find them on sale from the manufactuer, like at the end of the year. Does Petel make their own ropes, anyone know? I'm a Bluewter Man, but father has a 10.1 Petel!
Mark Lewis · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 260

What are you afraid of retail stores 'doing' to their ropes?

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Mark Lewis wrote:What are you afraid of retail stores 'doing' to their ropes?
Jumper cables, brah!
Tom-onator · · trollfreesociety · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 790
Mark Lewis wrote:What are you afraid of retail stores 'doing' to their ropes?
Highly classified covert ops have proven that sneaky retailers will sabotage new climbing ropes to force you to come back and buy a new one!

I found this information on the underside of my foil helmet.
Jason Blevins · · Burlington, NC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 125
SeaJellie wrote:Closely related to the how small is too small topic.. I'm in the market for a new rope, skinnier than I've used in decades past. Mostly I plan to use it for multipitch trad routes; I'll still use some stout ropes for cragging and sport. Am thinking that 9.4 to 9.9mm and 60 or 70m length is the target. 70m would be great, but I don't see a lot of choice at that length and size. Price not an issue. Not because I'm rich, because I don't get to climb much anymore so I compensate by giving myself better toys. :-)
Ropes are the important part of a climbing rack(gear used)...I alot of people have different opinions, but do your research 1st! Comments from climber may vary and can be good or bad advice! Because there are people that write not knowing what about things!!! I Only buy what the military buys/uses and the company that 1st developed the Dynamic Rope and does cut any corners in making their ropes(like they dip, their rope to achive a double dry rope...which means that the Dry solution coats the Core and the Sheath of the rope)! The company is over 50years old abd Family Owned and Operated, Bluewater Ropes!!!(so NO made in china or cheap labor or material, which many companies don't even make their own ropes, they have another company or place make it!) I talk with Dick the owner/designer of the Dynamic Rope(probably the formost Expert on Climbing Ropes, for several ropes and learned so much about Ropes, Useage, Storage, Cleaning, What they can handle, Difference between them and SO much more!!! He did try to sell me a rope just shared some of his vast knowledge! I aready had 2 10 yr old Bluewater 10.5 60m Accelorators...That are in EXCELLENT Shape and have been the toughtest ropes(and I use for everything climbing) I have seen in my 20+ yrs climbing! I just bought another Bluewater 9.4 Dominator 70m for leading/long routes, think I will be happy with it! But my Advice is do your own research and feel comfortable, on your new rope!!! Also buy Ropes New, Directly from Company(know what your getting!!! Bluewater sells their's on Bluewaterropes.com and BMOrescue.com Direct from production!!! Other rope companies I think are pretty good are New England Ropes, Sterling(altest they use to) and maybe Beal- have not heard alot about them....then I think you step down to other companies that don't specialize in ropes...like Mammoth, Petzel(not too bad), and other companies! It sounds like you know what you want/need 9.1-10.1, all depends on if you want extra rope life for rope weight! Reasearch, Buy New, From Repuitable company or Direct for company is best, it's your life! BMOrescue is a Direct Bluewater Dealer they have some sales on new ropes online- bmorescue.com Good Luck and Take care of your new rope it will take care of you ;) (tips- don't step on it on ground, wash in cold water by hand or a Tumble Stainless Steel Washer Cold, Gentle with Rope Wash, Only Hang Dry- Not in Sun and take a pole put between 2 chairs/tables and run rope over pole and spread out let it hang down! Oh and No Sharp Edges,if you can help! Enjoy Climbing and your rope :) I hoping to find a multipitch climbing partner, I will lead or follow...just tired of top-roping!!! Peace
Nodin deSaillan · · Boulder · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80
Red wrote:Mammut Infinity 9.5 - 70m Love it.
+1 - go for the duodess, you will not be disappointed.
Jeremy Hand · · Northern VA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100

BLUEWATER LIGHTENING PRO

Emmett Lyman · · Stoneham, MA (Boston burbs) · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 480

I generally like my 9.8mm Petzl Nomad, but it really disappointed as a dry rope. First day of use was in January - right out of the plastic and onto the ice it froze solid. I replaced my cheap 4-yr old NE Equinox so I wouldn't have to deal with this anymore, so a definite disappointment. But otherwise it's got a good feel and 9.8 is a good compromise between thin/light and burly.

redlude97 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 5
Jason Blevins wrote: Ropes are the important part of a climbing rack(gear used)...I alot of people have different opinions, but do your research 1st! Comments from climber may vary and can be good or bad advice! Because there are people that write not knowing what about things!!! I Only buy what the military buys/uses and the company that 1st developed the Dynamic Rope and does cut any corners in making their ropes(like they dip, their rope to achive a double dry rope...which means that the Dry solution coats the Core and the Sheath of the rope)! The company is over 50years old abd Family Owned and Operated, Bluewater Ropes!!!(so NO made in china or cheap labor or material, which many companies don't even make their own ropes, they have another company or place make it!) I talk with Dick the owner/designer of the Dynamic Rope(probably the formost Expert on Climbing Ropes, for several ropes and learned so much about Ropes, Useage, Storage, Cleaning, What they can handle, Difference between them and SO much more!!! He did try to sell me a rope just shared some of his vast knowledge! I aready had 2 10 yr old Bluewater 10.5 60m Accelorators...That are in EXCELLENT Shape and have been the toughtest ropes(and I use for everything climbing) I have seen in my 20+ yrs climbing! I just bought another Bluewater 9.4 Dominator 70m for leading/long routes, think I will be happy with it! But my Advice is do your own research and feel comfortable, on your new rope!!! Also buy Ropes New, Directly from Company(know what your getting!!! Bluewater sells their's on Bluewaterropes.com and BMOrescue.com Direct from production!!! Other rope companies I think are pretty good are New England Ropes, Sterling(altest they use to) and maybe Beal- have not heard alot about them....then I think you step down to other companies that don't specialize in ropes...like Mammoth, Petzel(not too bad), and other companies! It sounds like you know what you want/need 9.1-10.1, all depends on if you want extra rope life for rope weight! Reasearch, Buy New, From Repuitable company or Direct for company is best, it's your life! BMOrescue is a Direct Bluewater Dealer they have some sales on new ropes online- bmorescue.com Good Luck and Take care of your new rope it will take care of you ;) (tips- don't step on it on ground, wash in cold water by hand or a Tumble Stainless Steel Washer Cold, Gentle with Rope Wash, Only Hang Dry- Not in Sun and take a pole put between 2 chairs/tables and run rope over pole and spread out let it hang down! Oh and No Sharp Edges,if you can help! Enjoy Climbing and your rope :) I hoping to find a multipitch climbing partner, I will lead or follow...just tired of top-roping!!! Peace
You would think someone who is so gung ho about a made in America rope would have a better grasp of the English language...
Kevin N. · · Wenatchee · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,286

MAXIM PINNACLE BI-PATTERN 2XDRY! USA, great handling and durability.

New England Ropes makes an amazing product here in the states.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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