Mountain Project Logo

Advice on CoR itinerary

Original Post
Paul Wilhelmsen · · sandy, ut · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 231

Going up to City of Rocks Wednesday; this trip was decided on a whim and I haven't planned much out for it. So I'm looking for advice from you guys that have been there.
I should be getting to CoR at 9:30am or so and wanted to get your guys' advice on where I should head for the most climbs in 12 hours or less of light I'll have. We have a rack, a 70 m and a 60m and are looking for moderates. .10a on the outside but preferably .7s to .9s if they exist around there.

So what wall(s) do you recommend?

Any special considerations I should take as it is our first time out there? (Aside from heat, been climbing LCC all June and July, we're used to it )

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

Anything north facing will keep you out of the sun all day.

Recommendations for mornings:
Skyline (5.8) on Morning Glory Spire
Private Idaho (5.9) on Bath Rock
Divine Decadence (5.9) on Decadent Wall, Breadloaves
Carol's Crack (5.8) on Decadent Wall, Breadloaves
Scream Cheese (5.9) on Anteater

Recommendations for any time:
Thin Slice (5.10a, uber classic!) on Parking Lot Rock
Circus Roof (5.10c, roof crack) on Anteater
Double Cracks (5.10a) on King on the Throne

Recommendations for afternoons:
Bloody Fingers (5.10a) on Superhits Wall, Breadloaves
Columbian Crack (5.7) on Elephant Rock
Wheat Thin (5.7) on Elephant Rock
Rye Crisp (5.8) on Elephant Rock
Z-Crack (5.9) on King on the Throne

Recommendations for late afternoons:
Funky Bolt (5.9) on Parking Lot Rock (it's really not R. Have you done The Hook in LCC? It's the same speed)
Beauty and the Beast (5.10a) on Parking Lot Rock

That should at least get you started on some of the best routes in the city.

Paul Wilhelmsen · · sandy, ut · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 231

Wow, thanks Charlie, that was awesomely thorough. Appreciate it.

kovacs69 · · Dallas, TX · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 1,025

If you are up for a few great bolted routes.

Delay of Game - 5.8
Mystery Bolter - 5.9
Too Much Fun - 5.8

BackAtItAgain · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 15

All great suggestions..

Everything is aligned north-south... so stay on the west faces in the morning...(Breadloaves / Decadent Wall) and the east faces in the late afternoon (Elephant Rock) (Breadloaves / Provo Wall)..

Another route not mentioned is Hesitation Blues - great long easy crack on the east face of Rabbit Rock. Bloodyfingers and Twist and Crawl and Snakes and Ladders all good afternoon choices as well.

Paul Wilhelmsen · · sandy, ut · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 231

Thanks a bunch, I'm stoked to go and I'm definitely gonna hit the routes mentioned.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
Post a Reply to "Advice on CoR itinerary"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.