Going up to City of Rocks Wednesday; this trip was decided on a whim and I haven't planned much out for it. So I'm looking for advice from you guys that have been there. I should be getting to CoR at 9:30am or so and wanted to get your guys' advice on where I should head for the most climbs in 12 hours or less of light I'll have. We have a rack, a 70 m and a 60m and are looking for moderates. .10a on the outside but preferably .7s to .9s if they exist around there.
So what wall(s) do you recommend?
Any special considerations I should take as it is our first time out there? (Aside from heat, been climbing LCC all June and July, we're used to it )
Anything north facing will keep you out of the sun all day.
Recommendations for mornings: Skyline (5.8) on Morning Glory Spire Private Idaho (5.9) on Bath Rock Divine Decadence (5.9) on Decadent Wall, Breadloaves Carol's Crack (5.8) on Decadent Wall, Breadloaves Scream Cheese (5.9) on Anteater
Recommendations for any time: Thin Slice (5.10a, uber classic!) on Parking Lot Rock Circus Roof (5.10c, roof crack) on Anteater Double Cracks (5.10a) on King on the Throne
Recommendations for afternoons: Bloody Fingers (5.10a) on Superhits Wall, Breadloaves Columbian Crack (5.7) on Elephant Rock Wheat Thin (5.7) on Elephant Rock Rye Crisp (5.8) on Elephant Rock Z-Crack (5.9) on King on the Throne
Recommendations for late afternoons: Funky Bolt (5.9) on Parking Lot Rock (it's really not R. Have you done The Hook in LCC? It's the same speed) Beauty and the Beast (5.10a) on Parking Lot Rock
That should at least get you started on some of the best routes in the city.
Everything is aligned north-south... so stay on the west faces in the morning...(Breadloaves / Decadent Wall) and the east faces in the late afternoon (Elephant Rock) (Breadloaves / Provo Wall)..
Another route not mentioned is Hesitation Blues - great long easy crack on the east face of Rabbit Rock. Bloodyfingers and Twist and Crawl and Snakes and Ladders all good afternoon choices as well.
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