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starting a rack

Original Post
skierhs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

im starting a rack and don't know where to start, a larger set or smaller? bd c4 or the wild country zero cams, should i just get .5-3 set of the bd c4 and get some nuts/hexes? also how many runners and other gear should i get? anything that comes to mind about a trad rack is welcome. thank you.

David Peterson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 130

Start here:

mountainproject.com/v/trad-…

here,

mountainproject.com/v/build…

and here,

mountainproject.com/v/best-…

There are so many posts on this topic, hope they help.

safetyfourth · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 20
skierhs wrote:im starting a rack and don't know where to start, a larger set or smaller? bd c4 or the wild country zero cams, should i just get .5-3 set of the bd c4 and get some nuts/hexes? also how many runners and other gear should i get? anything that comes to mind about a trad rack is welcome. thank you.
.5 - 3 single set and nuts. hexes are fun. so are tricams.

And you'll be set to do 70% of the classics.
jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5,882
safetyfourth wrote: .5 - 3 single set and nuts. hexes are fun. so are tricams. And you'll be set to do 70% of the classics.
Yup.

I don't think you even need the hexes and I would just get the pink through blue tricams.

Jim
Alex Mitchell · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 2,367

Borrow a friends rack. Then you will be able to know on your own what you need. Don't waste money on hexes and tricams when you are starting out until you are sure you actually want them.

Nick Venechuk · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 60

All good suggestions. I was in a similar position about a year ago and I went with the 0.5-3 C4s and a set of BD nuts to start, added the 0.5-2 tri-cams after a couple climbs.

My two cents: I went with 5x60cm and 5x120cm Mammut dyneema slings with BD OZ biners to keep things as light as possible for alpine days. I've been really happy with my slings/draws setup as it allows for a lot of flexibility and ease of avoiding/reducing rope drag.

Make sure you throw in a few extra lockers and non-lockers, and don't forget a nut tool!

Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165
Alex Mitchell wrote:Borrow a friends rack. Then you will be able to know on your own what you need. Don't waste money on hexes and tricams when you are starting out until you are sure you actually want them.
I just started finally leading on gear last year after spending a year following. Actually just bagged my first full lead of a multi-pitch trad route. Luckily the leader that taught me was kind enough to let me use his rack to practice and learn things. Great rack full of cams and stoppers and ball nuts and all the goodies.

However when it came time to start building my own rack I went straight for a set of Nuts and a set of Hexes. I was able to get enough gear to lead a lot of climbs for what it would have cost me to get two or three cams. I plan on buying cams, but this allowed me to at least get going, and not have to only rely on my partner's rack. Now I have pieces to contribute. I also really think that learning to place good passive gear is making my ability to place active gear even better. I also have to say that I've never felt safer and more able to climb high above my gear than when I sink a bomber hex placement. To me something about it just says "you're safe now bud"

I'm no expert, so I'm just speaking from the beginner standpoint to give that point of view.
Bootz Ylectric · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 165

Oh and what Nick said.

Nut tool...which you should already have because you're learning to lead by following right?

6 lockers you really like (I like mine matching)
At least 8 alpine draws. (60 CM Mammut Dyneema slings and two lightweight biners of your choosing) so you can extend placements
And at least one cordelette.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

nuts and some cams you might be interested in - mountainproject.com/v/fs-c3…

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

One of things you might consider is:

What cams are on your partners rack?

If you buy a rack that is not very common, or buy a variety of different manufacturers cams over time, then that is what you will learn. That is the rack with which you will become familiar and comfortable.

If your rack radically differs from that of your partners, then they will not want to climb on it. It will stress them on harder climbs. They have to take the cam and hold it near the crack. It will be harder for them to lead at their limit.

They cannot “plug and chug.” They will insist you climb on their rack. This will stress you, since you will not be familiar with their rack.

Eventually, if you climb with your "idiosyncratic" rack long enough, you will only want to climb on your rack because---you learned what fits where and be able to “plug and chug” only on it.

This becomes a bigger problem on multi-pitch. Carrying two racks is just crazy—heavy and harder to move quickly and efficiently.

For this reason, in my view, the decision of what rack you purchase involves more than simply the quality of the cams.

A common rack is a a set of doubles and and full set of nuts.

Most people know, for example, with Black Diamond C4's, hands = yellow Camalot; tight hands = red Camalot; rattlely fingers = green Camalot.

Scott Mc

frxvced · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Wonderful!!!

StonEmber · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 35

New technology? BD X4's?

Allen Corneau · · Houston, TX · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80

Wild Country Helium Friends are a very good alternative and should be considered.

I recently picked up a #1, 2, and 3 to fill a doubles-gap in my rack and they've been a very good addition to compliment my Metolius-based rack.

Ethan Henderson · · Washington · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 602

Get a set of cams from green alien (.3 camalot?) to 3 camalot. A blue alien sized cam is nice to have on the rack.

Also get a full set of wires, or at least to DMM 7 (black). Dmm wallnuts are great, so are the metolius.

12 qds I'd say is about right. Make sure to have a minimum of 6 24" slings and one double (48") is nice. I carry all my slings for cragging as trad draws.

That'll getcha started. And its a good rack to expand on, meaning you wont buy hexes then sell them a few months later. One other word of poorly written advice, purchase the gear you really want. Don't skimp, you'll just sell it in a few months. Better to get your dream rack started and just keep expanding it.

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 18,914

I tell new leaders...

When you actually need something, you'll know exactly what you want.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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