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The Beak Buttress (the nose)
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
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Routes in The Nose
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Beak Buttress (the nose), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Bert's climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Variations to Bert's Climb T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bert Jensen and companions, 1937 |
| Page Views: | 1,718 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Jul 22, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Mostly known as the the 'Nose Buttress' but birds don't have noses so I changed the name. Enter east facing corner of buttress and exit it (5-7) onto sandy path until boulder is reached to belay. Move off the boulder on the left side and climb face up and right around bulge (5-6) climb wall with horizontal crack up to depression surrounded by bushes and belay. Go up and under big bush to a move around an outside corner and grab onto an arch moving east until there is a break in the arch (5-7). Go through this break and up to a belay. climb past trees and ledges head east for a large dirty inside corner facing west and climb it to the summit. If it wasn't for the bushes on the third pitch this climb would be a four star classic. It is also rightfully the classic route on the cliff because of the extreme exposure on pitch three and the fact that this is likely the first climb done on this cliff.
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