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Routes in Iron Butte
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Au-Natural T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Baboon Safari T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Beholders Eye T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Binky's Tragedy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Binkys Revenge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Nest Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eagles Nest Dihederal T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Goats, Horses, and Snakes T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grave Consequences T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grip Master T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hanz Solo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hanz Solo Alternate Start S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hanz Solo Top T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hooter Turds T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Local Crow-Motion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Locally Owned S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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No-Stick-Um T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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NYX S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Beard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rolling Crow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Slime Tube T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spudz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Under Hanz Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wall, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wild Women of the Planet Playtex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 83 ft (25 m) |
| FA: | Ron Anderson and Jim Arnold, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 2,152 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Scott "Scoboni" on Apr 16, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
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Description
To get to this excellent face climb consisting of small cracks and finger holds, you must climb either Wild Women of the Planet Playtex or Red Beard. Look for the bolts on the right side of Red Beard's crack. Start below the first bolt and end at the small ledge at the top of the face. there are two 5.10b moves. The first is just past the second bolt and the second is at the fourth bolt. Use the two chains at the end to top rope or rap off. You can also follow the 5.6 crack and blocks to the top. Protecting there is sketchy, as you're at the top of the butte where the dirt meets the rock.
Protection
Depending on how you get to there. If climbing Wild Women and you're planning to rap off, quick draws and a long sling to prevent rope drag after Wild Women's fourth bolt are all that are needed.
If you're climbing Red Beard or planning on climbing to the top after completing Grip Master carry pro to 1 1/2 inches.
If you're climbing Red Beard or planning on climbing to the top after completing Grip Master carry pro to 1 1/2 inches.
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