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Harness Friendly Jacket? OR Helium Alternatives.

Original Post
willeslinger · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

Looking for an ultra compressible hard shell for summer alpine adventures. Something that stuffs into its own pocket and doesn't take up too much room clipped to my back gear loop. I'm leaning towards the Outdoor Research Helium II. But if you guys have other suggestions for a similar piece from another manufacturer, I'm curious to hear it.

willeslinger · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

Bump

Joe Palma · · Stouffville, Ontario · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 35

Patagonia Houdini or M10

Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131

I've only had my Helium II for about 2 months but I've been impressed with it thus far. Hood seems to barely fit over my helmet (bd half dome) despite reading alot of reviews saying the hood was too small. Packs down super small and has provided great protection on the handful of times I've used it.

Be aware that a houdini is only a windshirt and will wet through with anything more than a light drizzle.

Nate Manson · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 135

i really dig the arcteryx squamish....

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

If you pay very close attention you'll notice he said hardshell.

Mark Wyss · · Denver, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 255

The Helium and Houdini (from what I remember) do not fit over climbing helmets too well. Something to consider. I believe the Squamish is quite tight around the chin as well if you try and zip it up with a helmet on. Check into the marmot essence. I have yet to try it on with a helmet but they do market it as an alpine jacket. The Helium is not marketed as such

ClimberRunner · · Redmond, WA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

The helium (and slightly updated Helium II) are actual waterproof jackets, not just windshirts. Mine fits fine over my helmet. If you have a huge head and an old Joe Brown helmet from the 80s, you might have trouble.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

Rab Kinetic. Slightly heavier than the OR Helium but has a helmet hood, real wrist closures, and harness pockets. I carry mine everywhere but have only worn it once in years. Fully water proof.

willeslinger · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 25

Will the M10 pack into one of its own pockets?

Ryan Kempf · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 371

Raab Latok Event hardshell is business. wont come up over your harness when you raise your hands (which you tend to do while rock climbing), has a hood (fits over my Grivel helmet) and packs down small. Mine has seen some vedauwoo offwidth and you would never know.

You can always pack a jacket into one of the sleeves and string a runner through to clip. Tie off short depending.

Joe Palma · · Stouffville, Ontario · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 35
willeslinger wrote:Will the M10 pack into one of its own pockets?
Yes it does
Nate Manson · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 135
Ray Pinpillage wrote:If you pay very close attention you'll notice he said hardshell.
If you paid even closer attention, he said OR Helium alternative...which isn't a hardshell. Thanks for your input though, i'm sure it was appreciated...
Walter Graf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 70

You guys have convinced me to try the Helium II. Any input on how it fits? No stores around here carry it...
I'm 5'11'' and 160 lbs and usually wear a small on top to get a slim fit.. I don't like baggy clothes. On the other hand I might want to layer a thin puffy or fleece under this.
The OR website says standard fit but I've read online that it is more trim. Any input appreciated.
If it helps I have the patagonia ascensionist jacket in small and like how that fits. I had a first ascent shell (rainier storm) in small and that was too big for my taste.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
alleyehave wrote: If you paid even closer attention, he said OR Helium alternative...which isn't a hardshell. Thanks for your input though, i'm sure it was appreciated...
I suppose you're right. Maybe I should have recommended a fishnet shirt because that could be an alternative to the Helium when bro'n down outside the climbing gym.
Nate Manson · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 135
Ray Pinpillage wrote: I suppose you're right. Maybe I should have recommended a fishnet shirt because that could be an alternative to the Helium when bro'n down outside the climbing gym.
Finally, advice from a subject matter expert.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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