Yes, I am long-winded and like to hear myself type! Maybe your problem is ... you climb w/ that toddler! but, I see your tick, "A bit short" (no kidding) "Led 2 pitches and had to bail."
It's sad that the guy who introduced you to climbing has regressed so much, mentally. I've seen it happen. Back when I was 16 this 19 yr old would drive everywhere, and I was impressed. 10 years later he would have panic attacks and not be able to drive at all.
I think that guy had no excuse, and there will be no "next time." If you want to take ONE more chance on this guy, next time bring a 3rd person. Yes, it is slower if everyone ends up climbing, but you won't be SOL for belays if he wimps out. It sounds like you were leading all the pitches so I don't know why he wimped out. Maybe he is embarrassed you are newer to climbing than him, yet you are doing all the leading.
If it was really a matter of ability, you could just haul his lazy ass up by setting up a pulley, and at least have his deadweight for the belay.
I would feel really guilty if I did this to someone. My one girl friend I climb with is a slightly stronger climber than me. We decided to go to Potrero, and I admit before getting there I was nervous because she likes to push the grade. We are a great climbing partnership, because she provides the muscle for the harder leads, and I am kind of the know-it-all (hard to believe, I know) for safety and procedures, setting up the belays, rappels. It was nice of Travis to accomodate his partner, but knowing her pushing the grade tendencies motivated me to train harder before the trip, and I got better! I didn't want to limit her climbing, because as mentioned above, on multi-pitch both partners have to climb every pitch. But because I didn't have to lead every pitch, I reassured myself that I was at least capable of toproping anything she could lead, and we agreed beforehand she would lead the harder pitches. That helped.
I think your climbing partner needs to get on a training program. Maybe you can train w/ him at the gym.
It's really important to have a good regular climbing partner to improve and keep the motivation. I have a pretty good regular local climbing partner.. we're at about the same ability and experience level, and work the same projects, and are learning together. We are also both similarly motivated, with a similar work schedule, and go to the gym together as well as the RRG. He has a GF so when I go on climbing trips other than the RRG, I go w/ my girl friend who lives far from me but is just as motivated (and harder-working) so it works out.
bearbreeder wrote: 2. dont climb with people who hold you back ... unless they are REALLY hot chicks ...
Stich, first I love the sour look on that person, and second, I am glad other people have noticed this problem as well.
I was out climbing this past Memorial Day weekend, and noticed a lot of guys would be climbing w/ large groups of non-climbing (not even n00bs!) girls. As one group passed by, this guy was explaning what trad was to a girl, and she asked, "Does someone belay when you do trad as well?" One of my party said to me after they passed, "I don't do trad, but even I know someone has to belay." I'm like "no shit!" ... one of my pet peeves is people climbing w/ clueless people to impress them.
I guess we all have reasons for climbing and there is no right reason, but I think people should climb because they love touching the rock, pushing themselves, the feeling of getting higher and the movements, the thought it takes to unlock different moves for a route, or clever protection placement. Not because they want to showboat. Ok, showboating is ok after a tough route, but leave the harem at home.
We kept noticing guys setting up topropes on easy grades for girl groups (taking up several routes) and I would say these guys were wasting their time (not challenging themselves), if not risking their life like that 30-foot go-pro groundfall guy by having the cute clueless belayer (I finally understand why everyone was upset at him, for the bulk of the thread I was upset at her for dropping him) - the girls were ok, nothing I would risk my life for, but then again, I'm not into girls. And, many times this weekend a single guy would walk past with 3-4 girls in tow.
One of my party asked why this was. I replied, because guys are intimidated by girls who actually do climb, these girls don't actually climb, in the non-climbing world they go round up these non-climbing girls saying they are a climber (I guess that sounds daring, outdoorsy, adventurous), and encourage the girls to come out... and the girls get impressed by whatever the guy leads even if the guy is a weak climber. He understood then, "Oh, I get it. The guy does a 5.9 lead and the girls are like 'oooohhh wowwww, you are sooo awesome...'" (Let me take you to my tent later) LOL I guess he sees the light.. and won't be climbing with me anymore! Next time I see him he'll probably have a group of non-climbing girls w/ him.
I hope no one here is guilty of this :D or maybe i'm just jealous and catty???