Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: FFA Glen Banks and Paul Seibert, mid 70s
Page Views: 1,113 total · 8/month
Shared By: Karl R. Kiser on Dec 10, 2012
Admins: Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

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Description Suggest change

p1: go up the large crack, past the bolts (typically aided so 5.8 A1) and then a bit more (the squeeze) to a stance on the right (longer pitch).
p2: go up then left and wander a bit looking for a stance to the right of the old eagle's nest.
p3: go left near the eagle's nest, up a steep head wall then right to a corner and stance on the north face.
p4: this is primarily a long traverse left and up the upper north face of Lesser Spire, staying below the major roofs above.
p5: finish up by climbing up and right to a rap station a bit below the true Lesser Spire summit.

Location Suggest change

The route is the chimney just left of the clean buttress on the west face of Lesser Spire. Rap and down climb on the north face of the formation.

Protection Suggest change

Standard trad rack with bolts on the first pitch. Better to bring a bolt kit and replace the old 1/4" bolts.

Photos

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