Nip and Tuck Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 7,650 ft |
GPS: |
39.98709, -105.43728 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 89,396 total · 316/month |
Shared By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Blob, Security Risk
Details
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with closures are crucial to the eagles’ success.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a good rock with variety. It has cracks, to aretes, to sheer faces. On a corner it is sheltered from the winds and car noise is at a minimum. The base is very belayer-friendly - the warm sun basks the base in sun for a long time, and there is a soft clearing around. It appears, though, that this rock does not see as much traffic as some of the rocks closer to Boulder - lichen abounds on the rock. TR: The first three routes on Nip can be toproped via a scramble to the W. side of the rock and a hairy traverse out onto a ledge. Ebb Tide is best setup right above the climb in a wide crack. The Night Train is most directly setup out on the ledge using a short vertical crack and a horizontal crack at head level for gear placement. For Heart Throb, you can use the same anchor as Night Train, but use a bolt above the roof as a directional. Bring some long slings also (about 10-15 feet). Between Nip and Tuck is a gully with access to the left and right.
L->R these appear to be:
A. Ebb Tide, 10, 1p, gear.
B1. Night Train, 9+, 1p, gear or TR.
B2. Heart Throb, 10, 1p, bolt & gear.
C1. Lethal Dose, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
C2. Small Dose, 12- R, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
D. Beguiled?, 10, 1p, gear.
E. Borrowed Time?, 10, 1p, gear.
F1. Left-Angling Crack, 9-, 1p, gear.
F2. Doc's Route, 7, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
I. Bock!, 5.7 PG-13, 50', gear.
J. Arete, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.
K Antagonism, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
L. Finger Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
M. Surprising Slab, 8, 1p, gear.
N. Hare Balls, 7, 1p, gear.
O. Old Dihedral, 5, 1p, 65', gear.
P. Dan-D-Line, 6, 1p, gear.
Q. Spread Eagles Dhare, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
R. Constrictor, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
S. Wimps, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
T. Gimps, 1p, 45', bolts.
U. Hypotenuse, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
V. Boiling Point, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
W. Argus, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
X. Mr. Stiffy, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Gyro Captain, 12, 1p, bolts.
Z. Rob's Start Direct?, 13+, 1p, bolts.
AA. Mr. Spiffy, 13-, 1p, bolts.
BB. Capital Punishment, A2 or C2, 1p, gear.
L->R these appear to be:
A. Ebb Tide, 10, 1p, gear.
B1. Night Train, 9+, 1p, gear or TR.
B2. Heart Throb, 10, 1p, bolt & gear.
C1. Lethal Dose, 10, 1p, 100', gear.
C2. Small Dose, 12- R, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
D. Beguiled?, 10, 1p, gear.
E. Borrowed Time?, 10, 1p, gear.
F1. Left-Angling Crack, 9-, 1p, gear.
F2. Doc's Route, 7, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
I. Bock!, 5.7 PG-13, 50', gear.
J. Arete, 10+, 1p, 50', bolts.
K Antagonism, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.
L. Finger Crack, 9-, 1p, 50', gear.
M. Surprising Slab, 8, 1p, gear.
N. Hare Balls, 7, 1p, gear.
O. Old Dihedral, 5, 1p, 65', gear.
P. Dan-D-Line, 6, 1p, gear.
Q. Spread Eagles Dhare, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
R. Constrictor, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
S. Wimps, 1p, 45', bolts & gear.
T. Gimps, 1p, 45', bolts.
U. Hypotenuse, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
V. Boiling Point, 9, 1p, gear or TR.
W. Argus, 13, 1p, 40', bolts.
X. Mr. Stiffy, 14-, 1p, 40', bolts.
Y. Gyro Captain, 12, 1p, bolts.
Z. Rob's Start Direct?, 13+, 1p, bolts.
AA. Mr. Spiffy, 13-, 1p, bolts.
BB. Capital Punishment, A2 or C2, 1p, gear.
Getting There
It's 10.5 miles from the start of the canyon, on the right side in the middle of a turn to the right. Parking is limited directly underneath, but there is parking further along.
Per Nathan Kofahl: the GPS coordinates of the parking area are:
39°59'18.4"N (39.988614) / 105°26'08.9"W (-105.4273684)
and
here is a street view where a car is parked near the crag.
Per Nathan Kofahl: the GPS coordinates of the parking area are:
39°59'18.4"N (39.988614) / 105°26'08.9"W (-105.4273684)
and
here is a street view where a car is parked near the crag.
Classic Climbing Routes at Nip and Tuck
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Weather Averages
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