Sunset Boulevard
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 251 votes
Type: |
Sport
Fixed Hardware
(9) |
FA: | Chris Archer and company 1997 |
Page Views: | 14,040 total · 53/month |
Shared By: | Chris Dawson on May 22, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Sunset Boulevard is located on the west face of the Bastille. To approach, hike up the Bastille descent trail past the West Buttress, past Blind Faith, and past Breakfast in Bed.
Start from the trail where a wide crack (New Chautauqua) leads up to a roof with chalked holds. Start up the face to the left of the crack, wander up to a pin in a bulge and follow the line of bolts through the roof and up the face above all the way to the walk-off ledge for The Bastille Crack.
This pitch has surprisingly awesome rock, really good pro (it's bolted) and killer moves. I'm tempted to give it three stars, but I think we give too many things three stars on this site that may not quite deserve it. Fred Knapp stated in his Best of Boulder Climbs guide that this has become a "classic de jour" and I can see why. I loved this route. The crux is short and it's near the bottom of the route. A lot of guides call this .11c or .11b/c, but I think it's a little easier, maybe even .11a if you're comparing it to T2 or something. Anyhow, after the crux is over the route continues to deliver with absolutely awesome movement up the steep face on better than could be hoped for holds. Definitely worth a go if you're up on the Bastille. Oh, and many guides also note the optional light rack to supplement the bolts. I brought a few pieces but didn't place any, as I thought the bolts were sufficient. It tops out just to the left of Your Mother when facing the wall at a dead tree (belay anchor).
Start from the trail where a wide crack (New Chautauqua) leads up to a roof with chalked holds. Start up the face to the left of the crack, wander up to a pin in a bulge and follow the line of bolts through the roof and up the face above all the way to the walk-off ledge for The Bastille Crack.
This pitch has surprisingly awesome rock, really good pro (it's bolted) and killer moves. I'm tempted to give it three stars, but I think we give too many things three stars on this site that may not quite deserve it. Fred Knapp stated in his Best of Boulder Climbs guide that this has become a "classic de jour" and I can see why. I loved this route. The crux is short and it's near the bottom of the route. A lot of guides call this .11c or .11b/c, but I think it's a little easier, maybe even .11a if you're comparing it to T2 or something. Anyhow, after the crux is over the route continues to deliver with absolutely awesome movement up the steep face on better than could be hoped for holds. Definitely worth a go if you're up on the Bastille. Oh, and many guides also note the optional light rack to supplement the bolts. I brought a few pieces but didn't place any, as I thought the bolts were sufficient. It tops out just to the left of Your Mother when facing the wall at a dead tree (belay anchor).
23 Comments