Any new moderates with short or flat approach at Red Rocks
|
So my mentor and always reliable climbing partner is getting to an age in which steep hikes and hard climbs are just getting too hard for him. He has been climbing for about 35 years and has done pretty much every classic moderate at Red Rocks - a few several times over. We have been doing annual trips out for the past 7 and last year he swore it'll be the last time he lead a bunch of newbies up Cat In The Hat. I feel bad that I left him with the newer members of the group while I get the chance to do the nice cool climbs. |
|
I would recommend MysterZ as the approach is flat as can be. But you cannot rap the route and you would have to walk out of Juniper canyon. Unfortunately the plums with the shortest approaches tend to be picked first. Newer routes tend to be a bit of a hike. |
|
Today, Danny and I just took his dad, Jorge Urioste (76yrs old), up a new route that was very good....3 pitches, mostly 5.8, some 5.9, but very mellow and excellent rock, Smooth Operator, 200' to the west of the huge dark boulder in Juniper. 3 pitches, 2 double rope raps...approx 400' of climbing. |
|
First Creek Slabs are a great area to bring new climbers. We really like warming up on Rising Moons. Easy cruiser route that brings you up to the upper slabs. 3 pitches with each one being different than the last. Just a 5.5 but fun. The descent can be done with one rappel with 2 60's. I keep meaning to do something easy on the upper slabs on warmup day but haven't gotten around to it yet. |
|
Hot Flash in First Creek. |
|
Another vote for Smooth Operator. It is listed on MP as "Sweet Crude," except that you start slightly uphill of the Sweet Crude rotten chimney , For Smooth Operator, you start behind a tree at the base of a thin crack. Where it ends traverse up and right across slab |
|
Here is that Smooth Operator I told you about... |
|
Andrew and I put up a new route last saturday that is just a bit up canyon of smooth operator: mountainproject.com/v/saddl… |
|
And there is Earnest Stemmingway (easier than Smooth Operator) 100' down canyon from Smooth...so now you have four short and easy trad routes side by side starting with Rose Hips, with a relatively easy/flat approach...with a tenth of the folks to compete with compared to Olive Oil or Geronimo (and just as good)....spread out folks |
|
Dow Williams wrote:And there is Earnest Stemmingway (easier than Smooth Operator) 100' down canyon from Smooth...so now you have four short and easy trad routes side by side starting with Rose Hips, with a relatively easy/flat approach...with a tenth of the folks to compete with compared to Olive Oil or Geronimo (and just as good)....spread out folks1/10th...I think you are being generous. I bet you Olive Oil will get 50 times the people on it in the next month than those 4 routes together :) |
|
Go to "whats new" near the top of the Red Rock page. Narrow down the search to 1 year, routes and first ascents. Several parties have been busy. Most of the routes probably havent seen a second ascent! |
|
Thanks everyone! Looks like Jackrabbit Buttress is the winner here. |
|
First Creek Slabs are a good suggestion. I'm not sure I'd recommend Purblind Pillar, though. It's stout in the grade, and the standard descent, while not particularly long, is a knee-buster gully. Great route, though. Easily as good as Tunnel Vision or Group Therapy. |
|
Did MysterZ today. My friend has a bum ankle so it took 1:20 to get to the base and 1:50 to hike out from the top, but the climbing was great and he was grinning ear to ear. Did the climb itself in 5 extremely leisure hours and car to car in about 8.5 hours. We love the route and would highly recommend it - I think it's a great starter 5.6 route. 3 stars for sure. Thanks all! |
|
Did MysterZ today. My friend has a bum ankle so it took 1:20 to get to the base and 1:50 to hike out from the top, but the climbing was great and he was grinning ear to ear. Did the climb itself in 5 extremely leisure hours and car to car in about 8.5 hours. We love the route and would highly recommend it - I think it's a great starter 5.6 route. 3 stars for sure. Thanks all! |