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Which is thicker?

Original Post
Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

A rather simple question, I think, but I bought cordelette and a Prusik cord from someone here on MP. And while he listed the lengths of them, I'd like to sure. So other then sending them another email, asking something such as this, I figured I'd see if it's true for all of you, too. For those who carry cordelette and a Prusik cord, which is normally thicker? I have a thicker cord and a thinner one. Depending on the thicknesses of the cords, could I use them interchangeably? Sorry for the noob questions..

tradvlad · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

the cordelette should be the thicker one.
see this:
mountaineers.org/seattle/cl…

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

I think a prusik is supposed to be tied with cord that is half of the diameter of the rope, plus one mil? Something like that.

Typically a cordelette is tied with 7-8 mil cord that is rated above 15kn. Probably too fat to work well as a friction hitch.

cjon3s · · Sterling, VA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5

The prusik is the thinner and shorter one. It's thinner to grip the rope when tied as a friction hitch. The cordelette is longer and thicker since it would generally be used to build anchors. Length for linking your pieces together and thickness for strength.

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

Most would use the thicker stuff for cordelette. If you think about how and why they are used, this should make sense.

I would definitely want to know the strength rating and origin/condition of any cord that I planned to use as a cordelette. I've never understood the rationale behind saving a few bucks on buying used soft goods.

cjon3s · · Sterling, VA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5
Ryan Williams wrote:I think a prusik is supposed to be half of the diameter of the rope, plus one mil? Something like that. Typically a cordelette is 7-8 mil, which would probably be too fat to work well as a friction hitch.
Half the rope diameter works well, generally 5-6 mil works best for people. 7-8 mil will work but you need way more wraps for single line for it to be able to "grab".
randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

Cordolettes are for building anchors. Most of mine are Ø7mm.

Prusiks should be thinner than cordolettes as a general rule. The difference in diameter between your rope and your prusik allows the prusik to cinch better.

If you ever have to rappel on a thin diameter rope like a 7.7mm twin rope then its a good idea to have a thinner diameter prusik cord.

I would recommend purchasing freedom of the hills as it covers a lot of topics.

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255
cjon3s wrote:The prusik is the thinner and shorter one. It's thinner to grip the rope when tied as a friction hitch. The cordelette is longer and thicker since it would generally be used to build anchors. Length for linking your pieces together and thickness for strength.
I'm laughing at the thought of trying to build an anchor with an 18" long cordelette.
Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0

Woah. Fast replies. That's pretty solid. Alright, well, I took a picture to show you all.



The blue one has a knot in it, possibly just to hold it together. The other doesn't, and is much thinner. Time to read your replies though.
Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
randy88fj62 wrote:Cordolettes are for building anchors. Most of mine are Ø7mm. Prusiks should be thinner than cordolettes as a general rule. The difference in diameter between your rope and your prusik allows the prusik to cinch better. If you ever have to rappel on a thin diameter rope like a 7.7mm twin rope then its a good idea to have a thinner diameter prusik cord. I would recommend purchasing freedom of the hills as it covers a lot of topics.
Freedom of the Hills is on my list of books to purchase. But I need a new laptop, as well. So FotH might have to wait..
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Thinner and softer is best for prusik. But, Klemheist is more versatile.

The real question, why are you buying used cord. The shit is super cheap brand new.

Jason Kim · · Encinitas, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 255

New laptop: $1,500
Freedom of the Hills: $22.00
Used anchor cord: $12.00
Keeping your priorities in order: priceless

Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
Jason Kim wrote:New laptop: $1,500 Freedom of the Hills: $22.00 Used anchor cord: $12.00 Keeping your priorities in order: priceless
Hahahhaha. Yeah, true. That was good though, it made me laugh.
randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

I'm sure someone will sell you a copy here in the for sale section for cheaper than retail...

Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
randy88fj62 wrote:I'm sure someone will sell you a copy here in the for sale section for cheaper than retail...
Very funny. I was actually buying a carabiner and an 8, but I wanted the other stuff, too. The prices were good, so why not?
Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590
Jason Kim wrote:New laptop: $1,500 Life Saving Info: $22.00 Used/Unknown life saving equipment: $12.00 Keeping your priorities in order: Dangerous?
There I fixed it :)

On EMS or any other site, 7mm cord is .45/foot and 5mm cord is .35/foot. So 20' of 7mm cord for a cordellete is $9, and 10' of 5mm cord is $3.50. There, $12.50 for brand new cord. One cordellete, and 2-3 prussiks. Look before you buy.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
Matt R wrote:I was actually buying a carabiner and an 8, but I wanted the other stuff, too.
A figure eight? Hmm. Do climbers still use those?
randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

I use an eight when canyoneering but never for climbing anymore. Maybe the 8 gets used for winter mountaineering?

Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
Brendan Blanchard wrote: There I fixed it :) On EMS or any other site, 7mm cord is .45/foot and 5mm cord is .35/foot. So 20' of 7mm cord for a cordellete is $9, and 10' of 5mm cord is $3.50. There, $12.50 for brand new cord. One cordellete, and 2-3 prussiks. Look before you buy.
I will do that next time. But yeah, I get what you guys are saying, check everything out and get/keep your priorities straight. You do it nicely though. Did I just jinx myself?
Matt R · · Downingtown, PA · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 0
Brian in SLC wrote: A figure eight? Hmm. Do climbers still use those?
I've always wanted one. You can rap pretty fast.
Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118
randy88fj62 wrote: Maybe the 8 gets used for winter mountaineering?
Nope
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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