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New shoes-pontas 2 vs sportiva tarantula.

Original Post
shain picard · · Powell, Ohio · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 125

So I'm in the market for some new shoes.
I currently have a pair of sportiva miura vs and have had them for about a season and a half. I LOVEEEE these shoes. They fit my feet like a glove at this point. The edges and toe edge has rounded off considerably and I will most likely end up getting these resoled despite fears of it changing the fit slightly.

I also am wanting to get a second pair of shoes and this is where my question comes in:
I am wanting something that fits a little less aggressive, mostly because the Miuras smearing capabilities are less than par on anything other than gritstone, but yet still decent with edging and bouldering. I like the look of the pontas and have heard great things, but the tarantulas are far cheaper. I've read that the rubber on the tarantulas isn't the best and its a good idea to get them resoled with 5.10 or something like that but that the fit is really nice, and I already know that the sportivas fit my feet very nicely. However getting them resoled right off the bat brings the cost up close to pontas range anyways, not to mention potential fit changes.

I was just wondering if anyone has any pros and cons and if anyone could give me a little insight on this more difficult than it should be decision I'm grappling with.

Thanks for any input and happy climbing!

zenetopia · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 15

I bought a pair of tarantulas because of the cost a few years ago, and it is true what they say: 'you get what you pay for'... the rubber started wearing through in less then two months... they, in my opinion, are terrible - do not buy them. Mine are in my garage to this day solely for when i am getting a burn on the Woody. Buy a better, more expensive 'comfy' shoe... in my opinion, of course.

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

the tarantulas are terrible. after four climbing days the sole at the toe began to separate from the rand.

I have the evolve shamans for my aggressive shoe and the pontas 2 velcro as back up. I really like both shoes.

pontas >>>>> tarantulas

shotwell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 0

The Muira lace has a bit different fit than the VS, but is exactly the shoe for what you are looking to do. Find a place to try it on and enjoy it.

The Scarpa Vapor performs well as a smearing shoe as well. It, like the Muira lace, starts downturned and flattens out nicely. The slipper, velcro, and lace version of the Vapor all turn into awesome all around shoes. The Vapor regularly goes on sale for less than the Muira, though both can be had around the $100 mark with a bit of patience.

Jtorres · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 115

I have solutions, miura vcs, nagos, and the tarantulace.

the tarantulace for me are gym shoes or trainers. they do not smear well (quality of rubber issue). they fit like a glove and really lock the ankle in (great for heel hooks). the eyelets on the top where you tie your knot will blow out. mine did and quickly since the upper is synthetic and stretchy the fabric will stretch until the eyelits pull out. the sole is stiffer than my nagos which is what I was looking for. I have used the tarantulace on a few trad climbs- they were comfortable and solid.

the tarantulace are not performance shoes. if you are looking for performance pick another pair. keep in mind that with a resole in different rubber I think the tarantulace could be a solid shoe. however, add the resole cost in and you will have paid for a perfectly good pair of performance shoes. if you are looking for a "trainer" shoe so you dont blow out your good shoes they are perfect and this is what I use them for.

buying climbing shoes is like playing guitar. if you sound good on a pos guitar you will sound like Jimmy Page on a great guitar (no you won't but you'll sound damn good) no one sounds like Page- got it?

hope this helps

drpw · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

i wouldn't get the evolvs. they smell terrible. it's a fact and a trait that would stop me from every buying another pair again. the smell is that bad.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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