Best shoes for slab climbing?
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Im looking for a new pair of shoes and am wondering what most people like for slabs. I mostly climb looking glass and cedar rock, so what are some recomendations? I was looking at the mythos as an option. |
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Mythos are prime slab shoes. I also like my TC pros, but think the mythos are superior. |
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mythos |
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Pretty much any comfortably sized slipper with a flat last...ie, not down-turned. Or Mythos...'bout the only thing they're good for IMO. |
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All depends on the TYPE of rock you'll be slabbing on. Some slabs are smear fest where flexible is the way to go. Others are pure micro edging and something that can hold on dimes is preferable. Then there's the always challenging a little of everything... |
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TC pros! |
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+1 for Mythos |
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Mythos!! They've gotten it done better than anything else I've tried. I usually climb to about 5.10 or so. Stone Mtn granite, Utah desert slab are favorite venues where they perform. I do agree that there are better shoes for micro-edging. I like the Miura for that. |
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5.10 moccasyns my go to slab shoe |
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As already mentioned, mythos or TC pros for here in the Carolina's. Personally I prefer the TC pro's for harder/edgy stuff and mythos for more pure (think stone mtn) slab. |
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I really like the Super Mocs for pure slab, but I go to the TC Pro if there is going to be edging. |
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Scarpa Technos worked really well for me. I used them for fairly steep bouldering too because the awesome heel system made heel hooks feel incredibly secure. |
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I like to climb slabby boulder problems and have sent V6 & V7 pure slab problems in Evolv Primes. Most will say this is a downturned shoe and dismiss it before trying it, but it edges on a potato chip and smears better than any shoe I've ever worn. The Miuras are good too, but the Primes fit my wider foot better and can be loosened for a very comfortable fit. I regularly spend 8 hour days in the boulderfield with the Primes being the only shoe I wear, and my feet are just starting to get tired near the last few boulders. If you want a performance slab shoe, I'd give them a try. |
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I climb in 5.10 Coyotes that I have seen from $75-99 and they work well for me on all kinds of Trad climbs, slabs, etc. Love them and climb very well with them! |
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For places like LK and Looking GLass, Mythos. |
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I like my Katana Velcro. |
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Soft shoes are great for pure friction slab, which you can find at many areas in NC, but they aren't versatile enough for me. It took me a while to realize this, but I finally figured out that a comfortably sized pair of stiff(ish) shoes works much better in most granite and/or slabby areas where edging and jamming are almost always needed at some point. |
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Brad Caldwell wrote:I like to climb slabby boulder problems and have sent V6 & V7 pure slab problems in Evolv Primes. Most will say this is a downturned shoe and dismiss it before trying it, but it edges on a potato chip and smears better than any shoe I've ever worn. The Miuras are good too, but the Primes fit my wider foot better and can be loosened for a very comfortable fit. I regularly spend 8 hour days in the boulderfield with the Primes being the only shoe I wear, and my feet are just starting to get tired near the last few boulders. If you want a performance slab shoe, I'd give them a try.I just recently switched to super tight 5.10 quantums for hard slab. They are pretty sweet. |
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I've been pretty surprised at how good TC Pros are at slab and smearing. Yes they are stiff, but you figure out pretty quick how to smear with the the toe rather than the than with more of the fore foot as in softer shoes. I guess maybe the stiffness concentrates the force more in a smaller area. Plus it is nice on granite climbs to be able to switch back to solid edging when necessary. |
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Get what fits best and isn't super down turned. |
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mythos fer shur. they definitely paste down the most square inches of rubber. |