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Cruiser Wasatch Trad for newer leader?

Original Post
NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

Looking for some easier Trad to dial in my placements and get back into the swing of things. Big, Little, Uinta (once it melts), or anywhere else really. Gracias

Joseph Lascurain · · Cincinnati · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 480

BCC -Jigs Up/ Steorts. Jigs Up has more options to place gear on last pitch.

LCC- School Room, Beckeys Wall, Crescent Crack (first pitch is great for practicing placing gear and if you dont feel comfortable you can rap before upper pitches.

Charlie S · · NV · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 2,391

I second Steorts. Plenty of gear options on that climb. Except the last pitch, but it's only 5.6.

Ferguson Canyon has a couple of options.

Consider some stuff in Ogden Canyon too: Hole in the Rock, Utah Crack, and Shotgun.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

I'm in a similar boat right now. Try Outside Corner in BCC. At least the first pitch is very easy with loads of placement options.

Josh Triplett · · Bountiful, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 0

Steort's is excellent all the way. I also liked the first pitch of Outside Corner JCHOB wall BCC. Pentapitch minus the "5.8" slab pitch is was fun when I was new leading too.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

This new area is excellent. A good mix of fixed gear and trad.
Also The Second East Faces on the JCHOB is excellent and probably exactly what your looking for.

NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

Thanks for all the suggestions. Looking forward to checking out the Dead Snag area and a few others once we see some sun. Cdec, what new area are you referring to? Thanks again y'all. Keep em coming if you got ideas

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Opps, not enough coffee before posting.
Back of Beyond.

mountainproject.com/v/back-…

NickO · · West Slope · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 30

Very cool. The journey home sounds perfect. Little farther south but was also looking into The Parlor Room outside of Moab next time I make it that way. Low angle cracks and hopefully graduate to Creek Cracks before too long

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

I will make a suggestion of where not to go: the dihedrals in LCC. Many try their hand on Satan's Corner and even Lisa's Shoulder. These are not good beginner trad leads. Many have tried with several having a less than desired outcome. That said Beckey's is a good lead in the dihedrals. The same with Bushwack and the Green A. Call it what you please, Perhaps come to mind in the Green A area.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

I did Beckey's this afternoon actually. Straightforward climbing but the gear isn't as obvious as climbs like Perhaps. Perhaps was great and eats up cams all day.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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