Bad anchors
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mr. mango wrote:It's just that they sort of look like paper clips with a caribiner attached.That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get. |
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Here's a nice one: |
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kennoyce wrote: That's a Raumer stainless in-line anchor set and is about as bomber as an anchor can get.Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains. |
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mr. mango wrote: Fine it just looks thin to me. I will stick with my chains.Those ARE chains, they just happen to be longer chain links than you're used to. Those anchors are rated to 27kN: raumerclimbing.com/eng/prod… I'm disappointed with how bomber most of the anchors are in this thread... |
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Kenan wrote:Here's a nice one: Taken from Eli's site... he's got a couple of other good ones too climbinglife.com/beta/tech-…OK, that's a bad anchor. As if rusty pitons don't scare me enough, that whole anchor is rigged such that the failure of any piece will result in the failure of the entire system. It would have taken zero extra effort and gear to make that anchor much, much, much safer. |
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I'll add some: |
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Andy Novak wrote:Anchor in Leprechaun Canyon, Main Fork, 2013, a bag of sand buried in more sand with a small rock on top. UgghhhhhWow, takes the term 'sandbagged' to a whole new level, eh? |
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I will vouch for the sand trap being a stupid thing that will hold body weight. by no means would i start praising its virtues but it works. also the Christmas present Deadman is pretty effective and terrifying anchor... but hey I am no canyoneer |
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MIYG wrote:That is the reason I carry nuts with me :p |
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Andy Novak wrote: Climbers like us are pansies in comparison.Well they aren't planning on holding falls with their anchors... |
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The nylon on nylon action in that one isn't optimal, but the thread looks solid enough. |
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came across these today and made me think of this thread |
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How about some international flair? Here are some pictures from an excursion in Korea. |
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Austin Baird wrote:Climbers might look at these ethics and think they're stupid, but it's really no different than a sport climber thinking that trad climbing is unsafe\idiotic\etc. Once you're more comfortable with canyoneering, you don't even think twice about things like this.Well, as a climber who's dabbled in canyoneering, I still think some of the anchoring is silly. And, it is slightly different than comparing sport v trad climbing. One of the differences is, at the base of a climbing route, you look up, and, can decide if its for you or not on that day. Once you rap into a canyon, you're pretty committed. I'm fairly comfortable canyoneering, and, I think twice about things like this a fair bit. Still a fairly warm topic of debate. |
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Dan Allard wrote:came across these today and made me think of this thread thailandrocks.com/safety.htmWhat the hell. |
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I found that pic in an Austrian climbing forum: |
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Lucky Mr. Mango got pic before the wind blew it out. |