Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in The Sorcerer
|
Atlantis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
|
|
Davy Jones' Locker T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
|
|
Don Juan Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Duty Now for the Future T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
|
|
Fantasia T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Gorilla Wrestling T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
Ice Pirates T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Lost at Sea T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Pinhead T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Raven, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Scirocco S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Sleight of Hand T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Stars and Stripes alt start T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Stars and Stripes Forever T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Thin Ice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Tradewinds S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Wailing Banshees T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro, Brett Maurer & Randy Leavitt, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 16,684 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This is the crown jewel of sport climbs at the Needles. In an area that is known for its soaring corner systems and beautiful trad climbs, in many ways, this is a counterpoint: A soaring, flawless arete, protected by a handful of draws...
But this is no Boulder Canyon sport route -- expect to earn the clips. High on the route there is a 20' run to a bolt, followed immediatly by a 25' run to the next one! Serious air is possible on this route, which is supposedly Yaniro's "favorite" climb.
Although it is technically two pitches, and there is a sit-down rest on the flake that marks the end of the first pitch, the way to do it, of course, is in one. The rope line is perfectly straight, but that won't change how heavy the rope feels when perched tenuously to the upper reaches of the arete in a lieback, feet smeared, poised to make a desperate clip.
It's a serious sandbag to call this 11+, or even 12a for that matter. It is 12a in the Needles' sense of 12a. Few moves on its 150' are easier than 5.11. The physical crux is in the first pitch: relentless thin crimps up slightly overhanging golden-brown granite. The upper arete is home to several technical and mental cruxes. Every inch of the entire climb offers awesome, cerebral movement.
But this is no Boulder Canyon sport route -- expect to earn the clips. High on the route there is a 20' run to a bolt, followed immediatly by a 25' run to the next one! Serious air is possible on this route, which is supposedly Yaniro's "favorite" climb.
Although it is technically two pitches, and there is a sit-down rest on the flake that marks the end of the first pitch, the way to do it, of course, is in one. The rope line is perfectly straight, but that won't change how heavy the rope feels when perched tenuously to the upper reaches of the arete in a lieback, feet smeared, poised to make a desperate clip.
It's a serious sandbag to call this 11+, or even 12a for that matter. It is 12a in the Needles' sense of 12a. Few moves on its 150' are easier than 5.11. The physical crux is in the first pitch: relentless thin crimps up slightly overhanging golden-brown granite. The upper arete is home to several technical and mental cruxes. Every inch of the entire climb offers awesome, cerebral movement.
Location
Scramble up under the base of Thin Ice, etc, then to the top of the Fire Wall and down to a chockstone belay stance.
Protection
15 draws and a long sling (for the anchor at the top of P1). Skip the old, stray bolt immediately before this anchor and climb up and left instead. One 60m rope requires rapping from the top, then once again to the ground. Thankfully, the bolt immediately prior to the long run out is beefy ASCA equipment. Stick clip the first bolt or at least have your belayer anchored in if you're going for it.
10 Comments