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Routes in Southeast Face
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Arm and Hammer T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a A0 |
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Catholic School Girls Direct T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R |
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Children of the Sun T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b A0-1 PG13 |
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Connections T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a A0 R |
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Crown of Thorns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Dirty Dikes DDC T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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First Mate T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Great Ah Ha, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mainline T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Matrix, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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New Diversions T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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New Perversions T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Parental Guidance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Perverse Incentive T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Purple Toad Winery T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route Doctors, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Spearfinger T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Traditions T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Volunteer Wall, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Warriors Way T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Whippin' Boy T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whiteside Girdle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Lassiter |
| Page Views: | 7,023 total · 43/month |
| Shared By: | Stephen Felker on Oct 13, 2010 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system
Details
All routes between and including Southwest Arete to Mainline are closed. fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Description
P1: Slab up a full rope length, cutting hard left at the bowl near half way (extend your gear with several slings), passing some cruxy smears and a couple of bolts to a double bolt anchor at the base of a steep face right of a right facing dihedral. (5.9+)
P2: Climb right off of the belay and fire up over a few bolts to a single bolt belay with gear. (5.11a)
P3: Trend hard right and follow the path of least resistance up the juggy but poorly protected face. When in doubt, go right. Pass a bolt and a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor. (5.8) Linking pitches two and three is possible with a 70m cord and some long runners.
P4: Continue up the face past some gear to the ledge left of the Crescent Pitch on the OR. Cut hard left to the base of the obvious crux pitch and build a gear belay where the bolted belay once was. (5.8)
P5: Pull the short left facing corner feature to gain a ledge and then a bolt, continue straight up over steeper but juggy terrain, passing more fixed gear, then cut left and engage the thin crux. After the crux, carefully climb the unprotected face above to a two bolt anchor. (5.11c)
P6: Walk right along the ledge until you can head up over fixed gear to a stance and belay. (5.9+)
P7: Beginning at a short right facing dihedral, go straight up past some juggy features and a couple of bolts to the base of a tree ledge and belay. (5.10a)
P8: Thrash through the bushes to the base of the rock and climb the featured slab to the top of the route, trending a bit right near the end. Belay below the rail. (5.8)
Recommended Alternative: At the base of pitch 6, leave the belay to the left and climb straight up over the fairly well protected faced (5.9) and link this with pitch 7 (5.10a) for a much more direct and highly enjoyable alternate.
P2: Climb right off of the belay and fire up over a few bolts to a single bolt belay with gear. (5.11a)
P3: Trend hard right and follow the path of least resistance up the juggy but poorly protected face. When in doubt, go right. Pass a bolt and a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor. (5.8) Linking pitches two and three is possible with a 70m cord and some long runners.
P4: Continue up the face past some gear to the ledge left of the Crescent Pitch on the OR. Cut hard left to the base of the obvious crux pitch and build a gear belay where the bolted belay once was. (5.8)
P5: Pull the short left facing corner feature to gain a ledge and then a bolt, continue straight up over steeper but juggy terrain, passing more fixed gear, then cut left and engage the thin crux. After the crux, carefully climb the unprotected face above to a two bolt anchor. (5.11c)
P6: Walk right along the ledge until you can head up over fixed gear to a stance and belay. (5.9+)
P7: Beginning at a short right facing dihedral, go straight up past some juggy features and a couple of bolts to the base of a tree ledge and belay. (5.10a)
P8: Thrash through the bushes to the base of the rock and climb the featured slab to the top of the route, trending a bit right near the end. Belay below the rail. (5.8)
Recommended Alternative: At the base of pitch 6, leave the belay to the left and climb straight up over the fairly well protected faced (5.9) and link this with pitch 7 (5.10a) for a much more direct and highly enjoyable alternate.
Location
Located on the "right" end of the Southeast face, the first pitch begins at the base of a slab with a low bolt and an overlap at around 50 feet before you reach the Original Route. This route is currently subject to seasonal falcon closures, so please check the kiosk at the trail head for restrictions (strictly enforced).
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