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Routes in The Capstan
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Just Right V7 7A+ |
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Oxman Arete (aka Daydreamer Direct SDS) V9 7C |
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Privy, The V11 8A |
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South Crack V3 6A X |
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Trough Direct SDS, The V8 7B |
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Urinal, The V10- 7C+ |
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West Face [The Capstan] TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a V1 5 |
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| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| FA: | Xander Oxman |
| Page Views: | 3,772 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Jonathan Siegrist on Mar 30, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Xander Oxman established this problem a while back, and apparently since then a number of holds have eroded- but the problem has been re-opened. This is definitely an enjoyable line despite being somewhat of a link up between 'The Trough' (V4/5 from 1961!!) and 'Just Right'.
This problem begins down and right of 'Just Right'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on 'Just Right'. Top out as for 'Just Right'.
This problem begins down and right of 'Just Right'. Start with your left hand on a poor pinch, your right on a large pebble and you ass just barely off the ground. Reach right to a sharp crimp and continue through a series of power-moves until you reach the crimp-rail lip. Match here, and continue powering left on small crimps, with awkward feet until you reach the sloping pocket on 'Just Right'. Top out as for 'Just Right'.
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