Still climbing hard after 50?

The OP's question wasn't whether or not there are older folks who climb hard, although that seems to be what many people are talking about here. The question was whether or not older climbers have seen signs of waning performance.

I'm 63 and, yes, there has been a gradual decay in my overall performance. For one, long approaches in alpine country kick me harder than they used to, so that I have somewhat less overall energy to put into my climbing effort. Secondly, I've acquired a few injuries over the years and those tend to subtract from performance.

But by the nominally measurable standard of route grades, I'm not climbing significantly less hard than I have in past years(10's and the odd 11), even though the effort going into the send seems to be greater. One factor is that I try to train (or at least practice) to offset the weaknesses mentioned above. Another is that I've tried to improve my technique by building on experience . Still another is that I keep up at least a minimal level of activity throughout the seasons, year after year. That's easy, because I love the sport. But I think it's important that you just don't stop or take long breaks from climbing if you think you want to do any climbing in your retirement years.

I was climbing OK before I fell 30 feet off a building 2 years ago, breaking my back- that was right around age 50, and I've yet to fully get back to the way I was. I could go into the increased recovery time as people age, but the main difference between when I was younger and now is that I don't really care how hard I climb- there are so many worthwhile things to do in life, and every day is a gift from God. If it's still fun I'll still climb, whatever the grade... good foot placement, remembering to breathe and attention to diet seem to help me a bit.

I'm 56 and after a 2 year layoff I now have more time for working out in the climbing gym and running. In a year I think it possible to back leading mid to hard 5.10 trad and maybe work some harder sport climbs, my main area will be Red River Gorge within 6 months and I'm looking forward to climbing there. When I lived in Colorado there were opportunities to climb several times per week and thats what made the difference. Also my partners were stronger lead climbers (and younger), so I could follow a lot of hard stuff. In February or March of 2008 I led (ok screws were in place) Soul on Ice (or was it Stone Free) in Rifle, that was my buddy Tony's doing he led it, I did a lap on TR as soon as I untied he pulled the rope and said, "if you want you screws back its your lead", it was good,pushed me out of my comfort zone. We had been doing laps on it often so I had no excuse not to be on the sharp end. Then later in spring, I pulled off some hard crack climbs near Moab. Definitely need to rest more and not push the hard crimpy stuff too much. I'm bouldering more in the gym then roped climbing and really finding it enjoyable. Bottom line is I would like to be climbing for another 10 to 12 years and be able to enjoy moving comfortably and effieciently.

Jack Marshall is well into his 70s, and climbing solid 5.11 on good days.

camhead wrote:Jack Marshall is well into his 70s, and climbing solid 5.11 on good days.

Yeah, but being old isn't an excuse for being a jerk.

Momoface wrote: Yeah, but being old isn't an excuse for being a jerk.

nah, that's a separate thing. also you spelled gerk wrong.

A few years ago I interviewed 50 athletes over age 50 and write a book about it. I interviewed Russ Clune and George Hurley as part of the project.
amazon.com/Athletes-over-Te…

My main take away is that as athletes age, what motivates us changes. When we are young, performance is high on the list, while the health benefits are low on the list. When we get up there in age, performance may still be important, but is tempered by other joys that we receive from participation.

Remaining injury free is a big challenge past 50 or so.

Don

Legs Magillicutty wrote:I hear that Lee Smith guy can still send like a muther...

Haha! I do push the "send" button on my text messages quite frequently.... You are too kind Legs.

At 54, it is all about injury for me. I should have taken better care of myself when I was younger. But even with all the nagging aches and pains I still believe it is all about the fun, companionship and outdoor time I get from climbing. Shelf, a couple of weeks ago: Great friends, cool campfire comaraderie, and I climbed a couple of .7's and maybe a .9. I thought the weekend a great success.

it's great to see multiple climbers in their 50's climbing as hard as they ever have. It's kind of surprising (other sports don't have this characteristic, do they?) and shows either how much is mental or perhaps shows how much further top performance can really go in climbing.

At 55 I don't notice much loss of power but I definitely need more recovery time between sessions, between goes and between injuries. But it's way easier mentally to be the underdog, which I really like. I'm just planning to do more endurance routes as I lose power. But not yet - PB last year in both sport (13b) and bouldering (v8). No more ice or hard trad anymore though - I have learned something!

I'm trying to get 8a.nu to start tracking the oldest send of a route -seriously - I think that would be really interesting, and motivating. Enough about Ashima and the other pre-teens! (if you agree shoot an email to jens@8a.nu)

Stow, I think it does show how much of the game is mental but mainly I think it shows how much standards of any given era effect what people will try to do. Let's face it - in 1985 V5 (B1) was pretty damned hard and not too many folks were doing it. Nowadays it isn't seen as too hard at all and every kid that's been climbing for a little while just expects to do it since they see everyone else doing it. Kind of a collective consciousness. Meanwhile some of us old folks are using that same mentality. We see that the kids are right - 5.13 and V8 aren't impossible at all. There's power in that knowledge.

...and of course we have great gyms, lots of routes and lots of good training advice to get us there.

Keep on cranking, old man. Let's get it while we can.

What enables me to climb (in my 50s) at a higher level than I did 25 years ago is sport climbing. That is partly because sport grades are a bit inflated, but in addition gym climbing allows for a training regime that carries over to sport climbing more than it does to trad routes.

Man, there are more than a fair share of older folks that crank. Have you been climbing in Eldo? I see all kinds of grey haired men and women climbing .11's.

It's all about not gaining weight, staying in shape and staying injury free.
It's also about taking a realistic look at your dreams and maybe modifying them. Us old guys have to climb more with our brains than our brawn and we have to pick routes that play to that.

Eric, I'm 57 and have climbed 8 El Cap routes in the last four years (3 solo) including a NIAD where I led the whole thing. This June I hope to climb two more routes and maybe the NAID in less than 10 hours.

Eric, the NIAD is all endurance, endurance, endurance.
My training for it consisted of 1 set - 50 reps of 11 different exercises, three days a week. On the other days I did 45 minute laps on the boring vertical wall at the local sports club, wearing all the gear I would be carrying on the route including a full Camelbak. I did that for almost six months.
When I was actually out climbing on real rock, I'd try to climb all day and even push through at the end of the day for a couple more routes when I was tired.

This coming June, I have a not so secret weapon, my partner is Cheyne Lempe!

Another tip is to go sit down with your NIAD partner and go over every single pitch, anchor and odd situation, in excruciating detail! Every single little tiny bit! Figure out what you are going to do and how you are going to do it in vivid detail.

Good luck on your next attempt!

these days, older climbers are my heroes. they know all the tricks, have all the moves, and display the most solid techniques.
i watch them close. i learn. and often compare my approach to their style, looking for ways i can potentially grow or adapt.
you can see their passion has thrived thru tests of pain, stress, injuries, failures, and life in general. and their motives now, seem largely based on sustainability; which suits my interests of climbing forever as well.

(( when a 60 year old racks up, then does leisure laps on country club, athlete's feat, and englishman's home...i start to wonder if i should show up wearing wool socks with birkenstocks also! ))