Multipurpose Mountaineering and Ice Climbing Boots
|
I'm looking to get a pair of multi-purpose mountaineering and ice climbing boots. I'm hoping for a boot that will work for both hiking and technical climbing, and my hands and feet tend to run fairly cold. I've got a somewhat wider foot but narrow heel and a medium arch. Also, I tend to wear the lightest weight footwear that I can for a given situation (but make sure my feet stay plenty warm in cold conditions), so weight is a consideration, but certainly not the only one. |
|
Sounds like you need two boots. If your looking at an all around winter mountaineering boot that will climb well and hike well that's not very hard. But for higher altitudes a double boot will keep your feet nice and toasty. The problem with double boots for ice is they dont have much sensitivity. I climb in the Scarpa Phantom Guides(newer model) and climb mostly in southwestern Colorado and Sierras and they keep me plenty warm and climb extremely well. I like the integrated gaiter it seems to keep me warmer and certainly drier. As for climbing ice in negative temps not only does the ice become VERY brittle( dangerous) but unless you climbing in Canada your not going to see many of those days. In Colorado I've been climbing for years and even in backcountry negative temps are rare. Go with something like the Guides or unless you think your going to be at higher altitudes more, Scarpa has the 6000, and 8000( both double boot) for that. Also, I'm sure the single boot will hold more resale value as that's what most people use. |
|
Mountaineering boots are either: |
|
Ryan, thanks for the info. What you are saying about double boots totally makes sense in terms of ice climbing and was something I hadn't even thought of. I'll be mostly hiking and climbing in the northeast, and certainly not climbing in bad ice conditions. Mount Washington is pretty extreme as far as weather goes, and the temps on the summit are only experienced briefly and far more extreme than the rest of the hike. But it makes sense that warmer double boots are probably not needed and not suited as well to ice climbing. My winter hiking and all-purpose boots are a pair of Women's Garmont Momentum Snow GTX if that gives you any idea of what I'm normally fine walking around in in New Hampshire in winter temps usually somewhere in the single positive digits to teens (although I've done -20 before, but getting that cold here is not all that common). |
|
Hi Kari, |
|
I have had great success with La Sportiva Nepal Evo. I just switched to the Lowa Weisshorn which is a very similar boot. I have climbed in the Andes of Peru up to 20,000+ ft in them and ice crag 3-4 days a week. They easily climb WI 5+ and mixed stuff. Ice climbing early in the mornings here in Utah, tends to be pretty cold when you are out at 5:00 am. They have gone with me to Alaska (not the boot for Denali) but other lower mountains up there they work great. Great for Rainier, The Cascades and the Rockies. I use them for shoveling snow and playing out in the snow with my kids. I snow shoe in them and winter hike in them. What I am saying is if you are looking for a Jack of all Trades I would look at a boot similar to these two. Are they the lightest-No- but they also are incredibly durable and pretty warm. |
|
Thanks for the link Bang. |
|
Check out the Boreal Kangri at Mountain Tools. Great fit in the heal. Super warm and they excell at keeping your feet dry. Larry and Jane are very knowledgeable about footwear. mtntools.com/cat/alpineice/… |
|
Kari Post wrote:Thanks for the link Bang. Sunny, thanks for relaying your experiences. I'll look into those boots a little more. They sound like they might work combined with a super gaiter. I'll also call the group I'm going with tomorrow to get a better idea of what conditions we'll have on Cayambe (it will be summer in Ecuador after all). I would love to try multiple pairs but most of the rental places have a limited variety of boots to chose from (Koflach Arctis Expe are very popular rental boots) plus we won't have conditions extreme enough for me to test in and order in time before I leave. :(I know people use and get away with single leather/synthetic boots in the Andes all the time. If you keep them dry and aren't out for long trips, it can be done. But let just tell you from experience that there is something to be said for being conservative when keeping your fingers and toes warm. I have not climbed Cayambe, but I have made several trips to the Cordiero. I personally know a couple of people who have paid the price for trying to use less than adequate boots (for the conditions) and are now missing toes. I personally am missing a few fingertips and I can tell you that it is not worth the risk. If you are unsure, go with doubles. Again, not saying it can't be done and done safely, just saying you should be sure before you go. and don't let $$ drive your decision...you won't care about a few hundred $$ if you are missing toes. I find the AAI gear lists to be amazing helpful, and here is the one for Cayambe: alpineinstitute.com/media/4… |
|
This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
|
|
Curt, I'll check them out, although I don't think I can prodeal that brand... |
|
Most of the ice climbing I did last season was in Scarpa Phantom 6000. Light, double, and for me anyway, they hike very well. |
|
If you want a double boot go with the scarpa 6000, or a baruntse/spantik. |
|
Kari, to cut to the chase why not just go with the Koflac Arctic Expe's, that fit you well. You'll get a time tested boot that will keep you warm and safe in Ecuador (or Mt Washington), and is pretty much indestructible. It will be totally fine to learn the basics of ice climbing. You know they fit you. And they are under well under your budget. |
|
Rick and superkick, thanks for chiming in! |
|
I'm not sure if you found what you are looking for yet, but I must say that in my experience, the best boot for any winter climbing disapline (ice, mixed, or alpine) involving crampons would have to be the Asolo AFS 101s. They are indeed older, and several updated AFS models have been made since their time, but I swear by mine and if I had been a bit nicer to them, I would never have even thought of getting another boot. |
|
Thanks for all the great tips guys! They have been super helpful! |
|
good luck in Equador (if you haven't already gone), look forward to a trip report! and glad you found some boots that work for you. |
|
Just to throw in my experience, I wear Scarpa Summit GTX's. I live right next to the White's, and have both mountaineered and ice climbed in them. I've hiked in temps down to negative 20, and stood belaying for an hour at -15. I have a decent resistance to cold. They hike well, ice climb fine, and hold up to temps great. I also run LaSportiva Makalu's which are awesome hiking boots, good ice climber's, but have a lower temp range. |
|
Sportiva Batura's would fit that bill, short of the double boot factor, they are close. I love mine, once broken it they feel great. Very warm too. Nepal Evo's would be great too, you could simply add an overboot for extreme cold if nec. A friend of mine uses this setup in the Himalaya for trekking and moderate peaks almost every year. |
|
Ha ha! Just read all the posts! Looks like my advice comes a little late! Batura's are awesome boots if they fit! |