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Self Arrest Fail...

RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100

I figured they were climbing in a pair, with someone above him. The terrain looked like they wouldnt need to be roped up...in order to move fast. In the very first few seconds of the video it looked like snow and ice were kicked down on him, followed a few seconds later by that chunk of ice.

TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160
Ben Beckerich wrote:All you guys that have made fun or criticized- who the fuck do you think you are? You sit there in your shitty little chair at your shitty little computer in your shitty little Prana capris in your shitty little dorm, occasionally getting out to climb some shitty sea-level bolted rock. Who the fuck do you think you are? You seriously think, at your shitty little 22 years of age, you have something enlightening to add to this conversation? You don't. Do some fucking homework. Grow the fuck up.
UhOh--somebody's going taco!
TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160

Oh, so now we need your approval to post? Should we submit a resume? Financial statement?

TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160
matt davies wrote: What is unclear in the video, and perhaps crucial to understanding this accident is, did his monocle fail? If so, who pays for that?
I hope the poor bloke didn't bloody well spill his tea!
Clifton Santiago · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0
Ben Beckerich wrote:All you guys that have made fun or criticized- who the fuck do you think you are? You sit there in your shitty little chair at your shitty little computer in your shitty little Prana capris in your shitty little dorm, occasionally getting out to climb some shitty sea-level bolted rock. Who the fuck do you think you are? You seriously think, at your shitty little 22 years of age, you have something enlightening to add to this conversation? You don't. Do some fucking homework. Grow the fuck up.
Dude! My Prana capris are THE F$CKING SHISNIT! Do not go there or WE WILL HAVE A SERIOUS PROBLEM! The rest is spot on. Sorry.
matt davies · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2007 · Points: 25
TWK wrote: I hope the poor bloke didn't bloody well spill his tea!
He dropped his trumpets, too. When the lads told him he made Mountain Project, this was his reaction...
At least I'm not a colonist. Egads that, what!
TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160
Report to the Queen that we were able to save the goat. Sir!

I'm not sure I want to know what this crack elite British Mountain Rescue platoon was doing with the goat . . .
Merlin · · Grand Junction · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 10
Ben Beckerich wrote:All you guys that have made fun or criticized- who the fuck do you think you are? You sit there in your shitty little chair at your shitty little computer in your shitty little Prana capris in your shitty little dorm, occasionally getting out to climb some shitty sea-level bolted rock. Who the fuck do you think you are? You seriously think, at your shitty little 22 years of age, you have something enlightening to add to this conversation? You don't. Do some fucking homework. Grow the fuck up.
Don't ever go full retard.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Rob Lilley wrote:This was in Snowdonia, Wales on Parsley Fern Gully (Left Hand) a little over two weeks ago. The climber involved was dazed by the piece of ice that hit him on the head, he has one chipped ankle and one broken one, otherwise OK.
Glad to hear. Does Eric Jones still own that campground there? I really loved the Eiger Solo film Leo Dickinson did of his climb.
Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
TWK wrote: I hope the poor bloke didn't bloody well spill his tea!
You asked a question and I answered it. The jokes were funny for a while, but you're both starting to come off as really ignorant people.
TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160
Ryan Williams wrote: You asked a question and I answered it. The jokes were funny for a while, but you're both starting to come off as really ignorant people.
Outraged!
Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230

What most climbers underestimate is how difficult it is to self-arrest. It is almost impossible on a hard, steep slope, and veryt difficult even on a softer slope. It is incredibly difficult to self-arrest once you build up any momentum at all. Try it on firm snow on just a 30-degree slope, and you will be amazed at how difficult it is -- which is why I tend to belay (or use a running belay) on steep or hard-snow couloirs.

Anyone who climbs snow or low ice should practice self-arrest regularly, with the goal of reflexively arresting as soon as the fall occurs upon hitting the snow. Practice can possibly save not only your own life, but everyone else on your rope team.

I'm amazed the climber in the video took such a long ride and came away with only a couple of ankle injuries, especially since he was still attached to his tools, though I'm sure he suffered from some massive bruising. My constructive criticism would be that he appeared to be in enough control to try to attempt to arrest -- or at least to slow down -- by turning onto his stomach and using his arms and hands in an inverted 'V' to dig in and brake (it's generally not a good idea to try to recover a loose, tethered tool, as it is too difficult and takes too much time). Best of luck to him for a full recovery.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145
TWK wrote: UhOh--somebody's going taco!
a one and a half taco-gainer with a reverse twist. Man-Prana!
Martin le Roux · · Superior, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 401

Link to an interview with the climber:

thebmc.co.uk/helmetcam-slid…

Here's an excerpt:

Q. Did you try and self arrest?

A. Even though I’d been practicing self arrest earlier in the month, the angle of this slope was much greater, and very little time was left to respond quickly enough before I was taking some bounces.

I don’t know what happened to the [axe] in my right hand, as it didn’t appear in the video once the fall started. I must have had the other axe knocked out of my hand and it can be seen in the upper part of the fall.

Once both axes were gone, it was arms, hands, legs and feet in the less consolidated snow on the slope to try and slow my speed...

Noah Taylor · · Atlanta, Georgia · Joined May 2011 · Points: 0
Jon Zucco wrote: I was thinking the exact same thing.
+1
yuptard
TWK · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 160

A rope with a belay would be an awesome way to "try and slow (your) speed."

But, hey, with free S&R helicopter ferries to publicly funded health care, why bother with a belay?

Medic!

RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100
TWK wrote: They? I didn't see any evidence of a "they" or a "them." If that's correct, that's likely the central issue. A partner, rope, belay and a couple ice screws or other pro would have modified the outcome enough to make an uninteresting video. Assuming, of course, it was present to begin with. It's hilarious how the first thing this guy checks after he stops pinballing down the gully is the integrity of his helmet cam.
He was in a party of 3:

What route were you on? Were you alone?
The incident occurred in Parsley Fern LH Gully. I chose not to climb alone for safety and the camaraderie of other people. There were three in our party and we ascended Sargeant’s Gully, with a further four taking an alternative route. I wasn’t climbing with my usual partner, who didn’t make it out for this weekend. Our party of three progressed up the gully and sometimes the gap between us was bigger than I’m used to. The second two of us made it to the more vertical and ice covered step, where I waited a little distance below.

Where did the falling ice come from?
The guy in our group above me was trying to get good axe placement. I’d already felt some smaller bits come down and was keeping a watch above me. Then it happened: a sizeable chunk of solid ice flew straight down towards my head. I had little time to respond.
Morgan Patterson · · NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,945

Amazed he didn't have more damage to his legs with those crampons on... amazed he did just snap off his lower leg.

Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35
RockinOut wrote: The guy in our group above me was trying to get good axe placement. I’d already felt some smaller bits come down and was keeping a watch above me. Then it happened: a sizeable chunk of solid ice flew straight down towards my head. I had little time to respond.
So the falling ice is caused by his partner, that stings.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520
Bang wrote: So the falling ice is caused by his partner, that stings.
Why the hell climb in a group of three if you aren't roping up? All the other people can do is drop shit on you or fall on you. How about climb another route with no one above you, or, wait for the other person to finish the route before you get on it? Or shit, rope up.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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