First Trad Lead report!

I've wondered since I got into the sport 2 years ago if I would ever be ready for leading trad while top roping. I always looked at the devil dancers of trad. at Devils lake often in aw and respect. Well, I finally had my day in boulder canyon on boulderado wall. It wasn't a hard climb, it wasn't a technical climb, but it was my first trad climb, first trad lead, and first lead ever, and I could be more happy about it. I went up with a full rack of nuts and hexes and spent through nearly all of them. I had two pieces walk because I ran out of long draws. I can't thank some of the experts enough on this website for your advice on gear, climbs, and technique just to further the sport and help people out.

nice!!!

Thanks for sharing the psyche!

Awesome! That sounds like a familiar story except I still feel pretty far from my first trad lead. Thanks for the inspiration!

hell yeah man! welcome to the sharp end!

Thanks guys and thank you John for some good entry future trad leads that are in the area. I'll be looking for those this coming weekend with hopefully some better stories. Maybe I can talk my girlfriend into belaying topless or something haha.

Congrats man, greatest feeling ever.....NOW WHAT?

ELDO!!

Congrats man!

I really want to get down to eldo! Went on a hike there to check out the climbing and was blown away. My goal is just to do more single trad climbing, anchor placements + anchor building, and work hard on self-rescue techniques, then move to the multi-pitch! Multi-pitch trad is my goal before the year is out. I just don't to be one of those guys where my partner gets a sprained ankle and we have to declare an emergency. I hate reading stories about those guys where it was very possible for a self rescue but they just didn't know how. I don't want to be one of those guys.

You sounds wise beyond your years my man. But don't be afraid to look at many of the first pitches in Eldo, and there are some great beginner leads that are single pitch with raps from trees etc...That is where I cut my teeth for what it is worth.

Seth

AlanJ wrote:I really want to get down to eldo! Went on a hike there to check out the climbing and was blown away. My goal is just to do more single trad climbing, anchor placements + anchor building, and work hard on self-rescue techniques, then move to the multi-pitch! Multi-pitch trad is my goal before the year is out. I just don't to be one of those guys where my partner gets a sprained ankle and we have to declare an emergency. I hate reading stories about those guys where it was very possible for a self rescue but they just didn't know how. I don't want to be one of those guys.

Sweet! Don't worry man, no one here knows how to rescue a second balls simlple 3 pitches up t2 . Do until you cannot.
Solo the 1st
belay 2 seconds on Cobb
Race up McGregor w the biggest gumbo you know
Pretend like you know, til you don't, then find out
Climb on!

Eff yeah! That was my first real trad lead as well. Good work and keep up the stoke.

Nice man!
Remember, trad is rad!

Congrats man! I just broke into this last season as well. Awesome feeling.

Damn, i'd be down for that idea if I just didn't buy an entire set of C4's minus the big#6. Piss!

awesome. congrats on your first lead. stay safe.

AlanJ wrote:Damn, i'd be down for that idea if I just didn't buy an entire set of C4's minus the big#6. Piss!

HAHA that's an awesome card. Maybe if I invest in scratch-offs and lotto tickets I can buy a full set of Black Diamond X4's when they come out.

awesome, looks like a fun climb for sure, props on doing your first in the snow, what route was it?