Metolius 3/4 Leather Gloves AND Trad rack size question
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Talking about the ones with the leather on the back of the hand also. |
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If i listened to my girlfriend about me having too much gear i would have sold it all for a coach purse long ago. Keep it all. |
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For general trad climbing purposes, you could prob sell about half of that. I rarely need more than doubles of stuff. You could make use of the extra in places like Indian Creek. Maybe for aid climbing having some more would be ok, but even then I've never carried 4 of everything. |
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I don't know many people who have or have ever needed quadruples. The occasions when you need that many of one size are rare. The occasions when you do and can't rely on your partner to come through with 1 or 2 of each size - even rarer. Not counting Indian Creek, of course. |
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Rack of doubles will cover pretty much anything. And if not your partner usually has a rack also. Better yet use your partners rack. That way if you have to bail its not your gear! |
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I'd keep it all... you'll use it in the desert and in aid climbing. |
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I like having quads of C4's, but then the creek is my favorite place. If it were me I would get rid of all the metolius except the master cams and buy enough master cams so that I had doubles from orange to blue and maybe one purple. Below blue Metolius I prefer ball nuts. I'd get rid of one of the sets of BD nuts (& all above #10) & buy some DMM alloy offsets (maybe some brass too). A black, pink, & red tri-cam might be nice too. If you need more $ to round out the rack, then sure, let the C4 quads go. |
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i would recommend not climbing cracks in your belay gloves. |
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sell the GF ... keep the rack |
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Showed the gf some of the comments and she thinks that some of you may have had poor relationships with controlling girls haha. |
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Sell all the nuts, buy a set of metolius nuts, a set of DMM alloy offsets and a set of brass offsets. |
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Ezekiel Thornton wrote:Showed the gf some of the comments and she thinks that some of you may have had poor relationships with controlling girls haha. Aside from that. I have been using a double rack for a couple years and yep, haven't really need much more BUT as Jack Jones said, I do already like the desert climbing. Spent a month and a half in Indian creek before I even knew how to jam! Will forever love that place. I'm not tight on money. I esp like the comment from MTKirk because I want a rack for it all! But I need some explanation on why drop the Tri-cam? I have really enjoyed the master cams but I've placed the tri-cams in some great spots! I've never used ball nuts. At that size do they hold more weight? (I haven't researched and prob will even if you answer) DMM brass? What about a couple friends 1.5 or even aliens, mastercams compare to aliens? Thanks allI'm a Tri-cam fan but if you mean TCU's I've found I can get a master cam in just about any place a TCU will work, and if the placement is thinner than a mastercam I'm happier with a nut. But hey if you like the tcu's keep 'em (seems like 1 each blue, yellow & orange would be plenty though). I like Ball Nuts because they are more secure in the smaller sizes. They have more suface area & almost twice the expansion of the smaller cams. I aid the soft sandstone around Billings & it's almost impossible to get a a purple mastercam to even support body weight, yet even the tiny #1 ball nut works fine. Yes for aiding they're slower than a cam, but at those sizes you'll be hooking anyway & using nut's/ball nuts for pro (unless on soft rock then you'll have to advance on the nuts/ball nuts as well). Offset nuts are great, I especially like the HB/DMM's because they have insets that grab crystals in the rock. Offsets will work in most places a regular nut will & many places where other nuts won't. They are harder for your second to clean, so when things are pretty straight forward you'll be better off just throwing in a BD nut. Can't help you with a comparison to aliens/friends/totems I just don't have enough experience with them. If you like the creek make sure you keep the quad C4's, you'll make lots of friends with that rack! Above all, don't sell any gear unless it is to raise money to buy more gear! |
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MTKirk wrote: I'm a Tri-cam fan but if you mean TCU's I've found I can get a master cam in just about any place a TCU will work, and if the placement is thinner than a mastercam I'm happier with a nut. But hey if you like the tcu's keep 'em (seems like 1 each blue, yellow & orange would be plenty though). I like Ball Nuts because they are more secure in the smaller sizes. They have more suface area & almost twice the expansion of the smaller cams. I aid the soft sandstone around Billings & it's almost impossible to get a a purple mastercam to even support body weight, yet even the tiny #1 ball nut works fine. Yes for aiding they're slower than a cam, but at those sizes you'll be hooking anyway & using nut's/ball nuts for pro (unless on soft rock then you'll have to advance on the nuts/ball nuts as well). Offset nuts are great, I especially like the HB/DMM's because they have insets that grab crystals in the rock. Offsets will work in most places a regular nut will & many places where other nuts won't. They are harder for your second to clean, so when things are pretty straight forward you'll be better off just throwing in a BD nut. Can't help you with a comparison to aliens/friends/totems I just don't have enough experience with them. If you like the creek make sure you keep the quad C4's, you'll make lots of friends with that rack! Above all, don't sell any gear unless it is to raise money to buy more gear!I've been doing my research and am now looking to broaden my rack thanks all the advice given. Much appreciated. |
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+1 for Akron! I used to live there! And in Cuyahoga Falls. |
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Throw out the stoppers and get DMM wallnuts. This goes for everyone still using those things. |
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ZANE wrote:If i listened to my girlfriend about me having too much gear i would have sold it all for a coach purse long ago. Keep it all. Our the obligatory, I'll take it of your hands and put it to good use.Right...do you tell your GF how many shoes she should keep and sell? Have that convo and you won't have to sell your rack. |
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I work in Cuyahoga Falls. How long ago since you moved. I haven't lived here to long but maybe you know a couple people I know. |
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Climbing cracks with gloves on is something I only do in the winter. Ice tools are usually involved at that point. It's not a good way to climb. It better be really cold to make gloves worth it. |