Friction Hitches and the Affect on Nylon/Dyneema
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After cleaning a trad route while rappelling on a slippery new, skinny rope I decided it was time to actually start using a friction hitch while rappelling. And, a question came to mind that hadn't occurred to me before. |
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When I use a rappell back-up (which isn't often) I use one of two the permanently tied 6mm nylon prussik loops I always have on my harness. In the past I've used nylon slings. I doubt it weakened them any, but it fuzzed them up real bad and made them look horrible. I wouldn't use Dynemma unless I had to, mostly because they are expensive & I'd hate to wear them out like that. |
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You are gonna dye! |
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mammut alpine smart ;) |
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My $0.02: Dyneema has a lower melting point, it is best not to use it for intentional friction. Use nylon and designate it only for that duty. |
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It'll work if you had to do it, but overall I'd go with nylon. Like Leo said the low melting point; also it's not as resilient and will break down quicker with knotting. I think Malcolm had good rule of thumb, if you're using dyneema for a repeated purpose, plan to replace it regularly for the next season. |
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Buy yourself a VT prussic: |
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Robert Cort wrote:Buy yourself a VT prussic: bluewaterropes.com/home/pro… Made of technora so it won't melt. In a pinch, you can use it to rappel down a loaded rope.$17 ? - less than $1 worth of 5-6mm acc. cord is all that's needed. |
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I got into a minor jam once and had to use a dyneema sling. I threw it out afterward. Now I carry a small piece of cord like everybody else up thread mentioned. Seems to be a popular consensus. |
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From the instructor at the AAC Best Practices Rappelling Clinic: |
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EvanH wrote:From the instructor at the AAC Best Practices Rappelling Clinic: Once you use a sling as a friction hitch, that sling is only a friction hitch. It doesn't go back on the rack.Honest question: Was that his personal opinion or official stance from AAC? Here's a photo from the FREE AAC Rappelling Best Practices Clinic Facebook page I found AAC Facebook page |
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Crag Dweller wrote:After cleaning a trad route while rappelling on a slippery new, skinny rope I decided it was time to actually start using a friction hitch while rappelling.Don't worry about a friction hitch. If you need to add some extra friction to your rappel setup, add a few 'biners between the rope and device. It's a quick and easy fix that doesn't require an extra piece of gear. |
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bearbreeder wrote:mammut alpine smart ;) i usually carry a few nylon slings in addition to dyneema ...Good input, everyone, thanks. It, unfortunately, confirms what I assumed to be the case. I hadn't planned to use the sling for anything other than a friction hitch anyway, though. And, while it's a trending topic, thanks for the reminder bearbreeder. I've actually had an alpine smart sitting in the gear bin but, because I bought it when I was climbing sport on a 9.8mm rope, I hadn't even thought of using it now that I'm climbing on a 9.5. Finally, I get to use this thing! |
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wivanoff wrote: Honest question: Was that his personal opinion or official stance from AAC?I assume it's a personal opinion. Dyneema doesn't handle heat well which is probably why that instructor said it. |
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Instead of the dedicated cord, cordalette, Daisies etc.. that most people carry I have gone back to carrying two or three shoulder length knotted 1/2" or 1" nylon slings. |
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logan johnson wrote:Instead of the dedicated cord, cordalette, Daisies etc.. that most people carry I have gone back to carrying two or three shoulder length knotted 1/2" or 1" nylon slings. Those slings live on my harness all the time. The main reason I use old school knotted slings is that they are often sacrificed to replace tat and revamp rap stations (last year I went through 80' of webbing and removed closer to 200'of tat.) Nylon tape is also perfect for friction hitches, and super cheap to replace.Yeah I do this too, EXCEPT for the prussik loops. Mainly because I just carry them on my harness coiled on the webbing that goes from the leg loop to the tie-in. Takes no space & they never get in the way. But yes; I find the home-made double length slings much more useful than a bunch of extra cord (say like a cordalette). I usually carry them over the shoulder with one 'biner. they lay flat, are easy to access, and serve double duty as runners. |