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 ADVANCED
John getting psyched for the traverse. (Prussik used to aid in traversing the 'uphill' side of the lines.)
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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 17, 2013
If that is a Dyneema or Spectra sling, be wary of using it for protection purposes due to its low melting point and friction likely generated using it for aiding.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Nov 27, 2013
Dyneema isn't going to melt when used as a prussic.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Nov 30, 2013
Tristan, with the slipperiness of Dyneema and Spectra can and has partially melted when used by partners of mine...which is what inspired my above post...scaring me.
By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Dec 27, 2013
Were they using it as a back up for rappelling? Or just as an ascender? I've ascended like 180ft using a shoulder length dyneema as a prussic and had no problems to unstick a rope. I can see it getting hot rapping with it but not as an emergency ascender.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Dec 30, 2013
Tristan, they used them as ascenders in situations where we didn't plan on ascending using them. They were slings for leading. They ascended or tried to ascend vertical/overhanging terrain, they didn't hold, they slid down the rope using them...much to their chagrin.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 19, 2014
To clear up the confusion, the kleimheist/prussic was used only to capture progress when pulling through the "uphill" side. All weight was supported by a locking biner through the belay loop. The sling was left loose and was pushed forwards by the biner as one traversed. A microtraxion with biner backup would have been ideal, but we made do with what we had at the time.
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John getting psyched for the traverse. (Prussik used to aid in traversing the 'uphill' side of the lines.)

Submitted By: Eric Klammer on Feb 17, 2013
On this route:
Tyrolean Traverse (Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 )
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