as I was googling my ass off or trolling on forums I came across a link to a blog about climbing. In this blog the author shares his notes from a lecture given by Colin haley, if you don't know who he is google him. The guy is an amazing climber and obviously does what works for him. One thing I read in the notes for his presentation was that Colin advocates everyone use fully strap on style crampons. Maybe chalk it up to my lack of experience, but that doesn't seem as secure as semi auto or full step in crampons.
To the experienced alpinists and climbers what are your thoughts??? Anyone have experiences with this??
the end of the note about strap ons identifies he feels that way due to adaptability, you can put strap ons on what ever footwear you want, even sandals if you really want. most good mtn boots for winter climbing are full step in compatable, many for spring summer are semi compatable, approach shoes take only strap ons. for serious high peak climbing when over boots become needed you could run into issues with step ins, key word "could"
IMO I think strap ons are less likely to come off the boot unintended, and losing a pon on lead or solo over ice sucks... been there done that
He doesnt say everyone should use strap on crampons, he says everyone should have them.
I think it has more to do with the type of climbing he is talking about. Haley is not climbing multipitch ice routes in the NE or Canmore, hes doing mixed ice and rock pitches in Patagonia and Alaska. In his opinion, the adaptability of strap on crampons outweighs their flexibility and 'mobile' nature under the soles of boots. There's no need to use step in or semiauto crampons on easy to steep snow, nor the boots associated with them.
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