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Bear Tooth Mountain beta? Montana

Original Post
Patrick K. · · Bozeman · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 295

Here's a shot in the dark but, I was wondering if any body had any information on the Northwest face of Beartooth mountain in Montana. Hope to look into it this winter but any winter/summer climbing advice would be appreciated.
Thanks

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

Patrick,

I am in the same boat as you, meaning that I'm interested in some beta for Beartooth Climbing. I'm moving to Bozeman in February and am really psyched on doing routes there. It looks like everything I want in a climbing area. Long approaches, long trad routes, few people.

Maybe we can meet up at some point and find some routes to do?

All the best,

~Ian
ianjmayer@gmail.com

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360

I highly doubt anyone is going to chime in with some beta since it's so obscure. You may want to try to e-mail Jack Tackle and see if he has any beta. He's responded to me in past regarding Beartooth beta.

T Howes · · Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20
woodandironworks.com/bearto…

this should help.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,746

Oh no...I looked at that beta and...my eyes, my eyes! I can't see...I think I'm blind...

Don't look, don't look!

GoHike · · Billings, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 25

Nothing firsthand from me...yet, sorry.

The link above and this one is about all that I have found:
summitpost.org/beartooth-mo… (decent beta)

I have plenty of advice on hiking/AT skiing in that area, but have yet to find anyone with solid (first/second hand) climbing beta, especially in winter. I'll chat with more folks and let you know if I find anything out, but it's on my list for this summer.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

If any of you know Wayne Harney (and you should if you spend any time in the Moab area) I think he has done the Silver Pillar and probably some more obscure stuff out there. He always has good beta. Originally from Bozeman but hangs in the desert most of the time now. If anyone is really desperate I could give him a shout and see what he comes up with.

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

my buddies dad climbed it in winter a few years ago. said it was fun, but he's really hardcore. Don't ask for beta, the rad thing about the beartooths is that there really isn't much info because no one reports on what they've done. Pick a mountain, slog in the 10 or 15 miles, and climb. Check out the regulators episodes on Mulkeys site for the kind of terrain you'll be in for.

sqwirll · · Las Vegas · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,360
GoHike wrote:Nothing firsthand from me...yet, sorry. The link above and this one is about all that I have found: summitpost.org/beartooth-mo… (decent beta) I have plenty of advice on hiking/AT skiing in that area, but have yet to find anyone with solid (first/second hand) climbing beta, especially in winter. I'll chat with more folks and let you know if I find anything out, but it's on my list for this summer.
Most of that beta is for the Bears Tooth. I think what Pat was originally talking about is the northwest face of Beartooth Mountain, which is a 20 pitch(ish) route mentioned in Turiano's book. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

this should increase your stoke, if it doesn't I would advise against winter climbing in the beartooths.

coldfear.com/category/videos/

Next fall I would highly recommend you check out this route.
cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…
One of the coolest spots I've ever been to in MT (actually, it might be in WY by like 300 yards...).

The two day ascent is awesome if you have the time, it'd be an easy day trip, but camping up in the mountains is always good.

MTKirk · · Billings, MT · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 245
Keenan Waeschle wrote:my buddies dad climbed it in winter a few years ago. said it was fun, but he's really hardcore. Don't ask for beta, the rad thing about the beartooths is that there really isn't much info because no one reports on what they've done. Pick a mountain, slog in the 10 or 15 miles, and climb. Check out the regulators episodes on Mulkeys site for the kind of terrain you'll be in for.
Yes on this

The best thing about the Beartooths is that you get to figure everything out for yourself. This might seem a little annoying, but if it wasn't like this it would be just another ho-hum climbing area over run with people. The first time I went up to the Froze to Death plateau (20 years ago) it was like being on the moon. The last time I was there it felt like the parking lot at SuperCrack. Just pick something out & get after it. What ever you do it will be awesome. Not because there's anything special about the climbing, just because the place is incredible and every ascent feels like a first ascent.
GoHike · · Billings, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 25

"Select Alpine Climbs to Montana" by Ron Brunkhorst
Ian, you will want to get a copy.

Patrick, for your specific route the book says little more than that it's a Multiple Day trip 5.9ish (26 pitches most pitches are easier), the other link should give you a clue about the approach.

The ski approach in winter can be dangerous, that I can confirm from my experience skiing in the area. I have friends, who have been lucky enough to ski out of avalanches in that same area.

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

Thanks! I picked up my copy about a week ago.

I'm looking for a partner for some summer alpine climbing (Absaroka and Beartooth Ranges especially)! Lots of multi-pitch rock experience. No snow experience but I have the gear and the psyche!

Matt Lemke · · Bellingham, WA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 5

Ian,
I am also looking for partners for the Beartooth range this coming summer for big multi-pitch climbs. I spent 5 weeks in the Beartooths last summer and can easily spend 10 more just climbing. There are some steep snow routes I am also interested in. I hope to make a few trips to the Beartooths before May then a really big one in July.
Matt

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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