Belaying the second off the anchor

Why's he wearing gloves but no shirt?

Bob Dergay wrote:This is the funniest thread I've seen in a while.... possibly ever!

It is a privilege to provide you---and others who take time out of their important and busy days to read this thread---with so much apparently high-quality entertainment.

Bob Dergay wrote:Someone should start a new thread on the best way to tie your shoes just to see how much techno jerking-off that topic would get!

Let's see...shoe tying. Offhand, I know three different ways to lace, plus some variations. But I'm going to restrain myself---too much fun may not be such a good thing.

As for the actual topic and the several pages of contributors who were not aware that they were jerking off until informed by the proper authorities, it is clear that many people find belaying off the anchor fits their style and their needs. It is entirely possible, as jcurl suggests, that there may be some generational bias involved, which always means that the younger generation will prevail. Perhaps a few people will realize that the newer methods have some deficits, and at least adjust their procedures to lessen the effects.

Bob Dergay wrote:This is the funniest thread I've seen in a while.... possibly ever! Someone should start a new thread on the best way to tie your shoes just to see how much techno jerking-off that topic would get!

http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/knots.htm

I never belay directly off the anchor and as far as the shoes, I believe you can tell a lot about a climber by the way he/she ties their shoes.

James Beissel wrote:What would Tommy do? youtube.com/watch?v=Y0YUseO…

Tommy would know!

jmeizis wrote:Why's he wearing gloves but no shirt?

Really can't figure that one out?
And to super techno jerk off, Tommy's masterpoint should be higher.

i was wondering if anyone has set up a Z haul or a 3:1 to help a stuck second over a crux on a ATC in guide mode. Sure it be a good idea to have your prusik still just to be safe but would the ATC allow the rope to pass threw it?

James Beissel wrote:I build one anchor for me and one for my second with a minimum of 4 pieces in each anchor. Each anchor is equalized with an ACR (you'll need three ACRs for a multipitch climb). I tie into my anchor and then belay my second directly off of their anchor using an ATC Guide. I clip a GriGri to my harness and attach that to the brake side of the ATC Guide as a backup. (I think the Trango Cinch is lighter and would work the same way - something to think about for alpine climbs). As my second cleans the pitch it is a simple process to take the slack out through the ATC Guide, then take the slack out with the Gri Gri and then I also tie backup knots approximately every 10-15 feet. The nice thing about this system is that I can let go of the brake side of the rope (after wrapping it around my leg and tying an extra backup, of course) to read the guidebook or enter a waypoint into my GPS.

This seems quite overkill. If you have guide-mode set up correctly you can take your hands off without issue, with no need for a back up, or back up knots...

Edit: pretty late to the punch, I now realize

Buddy B. wrote:i was wondering if anyone has set up a Z haul or a 3:1 to help a stuck second over a crux on a ATC in guide mode. Sure it be a good idea to have your prusik still just to be safe but would the ATC allow the rope to pass threw it?

It's actually a lot easier if you're belaying in guide mode. When I used to GUIDE a lot, this is how I would belay when I anticipated having to haul a client through a crux. I always thought that is why they called in the guide - not so that every climber out there would think that they have to belay off the anchor every time because it's safer. Of course, I'm sure that BD is OK w/ that too - the guide makes them a lot more money than the regular ATC.

Buddy B. wrote:i was wondering if anyone has set up a Z haul or a 3:1 to help a stuck second over a crux on a ATC in guide mode. Sure it be a good idea to have your prusik still just to be safe but would the ATC allow the rope to pass threw it?

I do this all the time when climbing with my wife, I use a klemhiest on the climbers strand to hold the 'biner "pulley" and pull the brake strand up from it. No need for the ratcheting prussik on the brake strand, your hand never leaves the brake strand anyway.

The lowering problem is hugely over blown. If you have a nut tool on you (I always do when using a guide) just stick the hooked end in the release loop and push up. Takes half a second, and requires NO rigging.