Your First Big Wall
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what was your first big wall experience? |
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Depends. My first big wall free climb was done with a good friend. We didnt know much but what as in a simple guide book. we choose something that was right at out onsighting limit. We got scared, run out, took a few falls but made it up and down without any real problems. it was a great time. if your free climbing, go for something that will test you in all aspects not just height. |
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Nick Zmyewski wrote:Don't forget the can opener.Can opener = nut tool + rock on a ledge To the OP: don't let people discourage you; more importantly, don't let you discourage yourself. It's easy to want to give up and listen to internal negative feedback loops. Aiding, hauling and sh*tting on walls will be cumbersome, but it'll all be worth it. With the right partner. Also, people/books don't emphasize enough on how *slow* it can be. Here's a good thread to read: mountainproject.com/v/this-… Get the new Supertopo big wall aid 101 book. I'm sure it will have everything you'll want to know without all the spray. Good luck and post up when you give it a go! |
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^^^ |
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Fat Dad wrote:^^^ I don't think folks are being discouraging. I think they're being honest. Nothing worse than getting sandbagged by a lot of unrealistic 'go for it' kind of hype.I wasn't referring to the context of this thread (which yes, in hindsight, was stupid silly). I meant from a more expanded view (e.g. reading other posts or talking to those lamenting about how hard it is and questioning whether the effort and struggle is worth the satisfaction). You won't be discouraged by someone saying, 'no way, you can't do it'. I trying to refer to *you* as your own worst enemy. It's easy to get caught up in the worry, doubt, bail stories and sufferfesting anecdotes-- remember, part truth and usually part hyperbole. Big wall aid climbing is vertical engineering. Competence, problem solving and a heavy dose of mental and physical stamina will get you to the top. Read, practice, try, fail, try some more, but don't get caught up in the beta or spray. There's more than one way to skin a cat. Some are fortunate to have had a mentor. I didn't and there was satisfaction is figuring it all out with a partner that was equally as clueless. As long as failure doesn't result in death, failure will be as important as success. You will encounter failure, and that's not a bad thing. Because it will only amplify the satisfaction of overcoming. Choose your own adventure. And report back! |
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A buddy and I are currently working on our first aid project, a chossy and challenging clean wall at smith. You most likely really won't know what your getting into the first time and the learning curve is steep (first pitch took 3 hrs the first time and 1:40 the next). My biggest challenge was actually organizing two 70M ropes and forming a nice belay. We are jumping straight into C2+/3 and it's terrifying at times but I feel like if/when we go to a more famous locale like Zion or the Valley it will be a cakewalk compared to the loose guano cracks we are getting used to! |
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Another round of thanks to everyone that contributed. I've so enjoyed reading your stories. Your thoughts are sincerely appreciated, and your advice taken to heart. I'm not at all discouraged! My enthusiasm is as great as ever, though it is certainly coupled with a healthy dose of pragmatism. Planning to take on a wall in April, and the next three months will be spent working towards that end. Thus far, that's involved dropping a fixed line off my two story house and jugging/rapping, up and down, up and down, for about an hour every night and then loading my pig up with weights and hauling it up and down, up and down. Its not a long way, but Im getting the set up wired and my muscles used to the movements. And, Fat Dad, Im definitely working on my abs! |
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What wall are you planning on doing in April? |
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Prod, |
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April is too early to reliably climb Zodiac, which is also a pretty involved wall for your first one. The weather is iffy that time of year and, unless you get a window of warm weather, those belays and bivies will be cold and seem endless, especially if your partner is new to aid and futzing his or her way up. Also, Zodiac has kind of become like The Nose, where the lower half of the route can be clogged with folks who don't know what they're doing and eventually bail. You'll either be wading (or waiting) through that or be one of the clogs. |
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Aeryn- i assume you are focused on an aid wall rather than a longer, mostly free climb ?? |
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I agree with Fat Dad's comments on El Cap in April. My first time on the Captain was mid May. Weather was nice - but there was still a lot of snow on top - which means the Captain was quite wet. One of the many reasons why we didn't top out on my first big wall. |
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I have done some big moderate trad climbs and thought about getting into aid climbing, but from the sounds of a lot of comments about aid climbing maybe it is good idea to just stick to trad and sport. Does aid climbing suck that much? |
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Mia KCarver wrote: Can opener = nut tool + rock on a ledge To the OP: don't let people discourage you; more importantly, don't let you discourage yourself. It's easy to want to give up and listen to internal negative feedback loops. Aiding, hauling and sh*tting on walls will be cumbersome, but it'll all be worth it. With the right partner. Also, people/books don't emphasize enough on how *slow* it can be. Here's a good thread to read: mountainproject.com/v/this-… Get the new Supertopo big wall aid 101 book. I'm sure it will have everything you'll want to know without all the spray. Good luck and post up when you give it a go!Genius! We didn't even think of using the nut tool. We just used a kinda pointy rock and another rock to hit it with. The 2nd bigwall, we brought one of the military style can openers. They work great and weigh nothing. |
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brianjames wrote:I have done some big moderate trad climbs and thought about getting into aid climbing, but from the sounds of a lot of comments about aid climbing maybe it is good idea to just stick to trad and sport. Does aid climbing suck that much?That depends on you. I haven't done much aid, but I had a blast the whole time i was trying. Even when i was struggling, it was awesome. |
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I'd say stick to your plan. ElCap for your first wall is pretty sweet, and Zodiac is doable if you understand gear. Practice anchors (all bolted with at least 3 bomber) and hauling. My only concern would be snow pack at the top. |
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Wally, Watkins, and John - your thoughts are so appreciated and have inspired another round of discussion on the route choice(s). Moonlight was in the running for a backup, so we'll give it another look, and look at Space Shot as well. Inside Yosemite, we'll give Leaning Tower a look. With respect to the weather, we are lucky to have someone who lives in the Valley reporting on conditions, specifically the snow pack, so we'll be able to make an informed decision on that front before we leave the house. I think that helps. If you've invested travel time, it might be harder to make a smart choice. Also, my partner's done a number of walls in Yosemite and in Zion. My goal is to work through my futzing stage as fast as possible... |
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Aid climbing doesn't suck if you actually spend the time learning how to do it. It is awful if you just hop on a wall kinda sorta knowing what you are doing, but it goes relatively efficiently and painlessly if you put in the practice. CMac's new book really is wonderful for drilling you in ways that work well in the real world and being realistic about the time it takes to really master those skills. For some reason people expect to just start aid climbing and have it happen easily and naturally, which is just not the way it works. |
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Aeryn - you are welcome. I look forward to hearing about your first big wall adventure. |