Where do people that actually live in DC climb?

Great falls does have surprisingly decent climbing, on both sides of the Potomac. There's even a deep water solo under one of the popular cliff jumping spots.

Jake Jones wrote: Hahaha. I completely agree. I've never been to the DC area, but what you say is true. If the choice is between even solo TR on a choss pile, and nothing, I'm going with the latter. I remember that comment about Seneca. I've only been there twice, and I have to say that was my first impression too- especially for a lot of the lower grade routes on the west face. Still an awesome place with a lot of quality and adventurous routes and a lot of history. FWIW to the OP, I have two rock gyms "near" to me- but in opposite directions. The traffic can't really be compared to DC, but either way I go, I have to drive through clogged interstate traffic- for an hour+. If I want to climb outside without planning a weekend trip hours away in another state, I have to drive almost an hour to old granite bridge abutments that have been bolted. Some call it a choss pile- which it is. I call it my only option sometimes, and I'm grateful to have that over nothing. If you love it, and you really want to do it, you have two choices: A) figure out the fastest and/or most economical option and just do it, or B) go the way of so many others and move to an area where options and good climbing are much close and convenient and plentiful. It all comes down to how much you love it, and how dedicated you are to putting time in.

haha i just called Seneca a chosspile in another thread, but a bit tongue in cheek. I love climbing there, probably more than the gunks. It can be a bit crumbly though.

Rafael Rovirosa wrote:People call Seneca a choss pile because it is an enormous choss pile. Seneca is one of the only crags in the country that when you approach it on the highway coming from the New you say "Wow, we are 25 miles out and I can already tell that place is a crumbling, deteriorating, piece of choss." After climbing at Seneca for the first year or so of my trad career, I tapped on every hold to make sure it was good at all the places I went to afterwards. This practice is absolutely necessary at Seneca, but when I realized I didn't have to do that at quality crags, the association of choss with Seneca became permanently cemented. On top of the chossiness, if you climb harder than 10 then you are going to have to go above small gear like brassies and 00 tcus. The grades stop at 12 except for maybe 1 junky sport route that goes at 13. Even worse than not having hard climbs is the unbelievable amount of gumbies. No area in the world attracts as many gumbies as Seneca. If you get to a rappel station and there is even 1 party there you might as well walk down because the party will invariably be a bunch of gumbies that take 2 hours to set a rappel. The gumbies are also very dangerous; they will drop stuff on you, epic on 5s, and make stupid mistakes that someone with 20 years of experience should never make. Seneca gumbies are the worst in that regard; they are not gumbies because they have been climbing for 9 months and want to try trad, they are gumbies because they have been climbing for 20 years and still act like they have been climbing for 9 months. There are more of these "Perma-gumbies" at Seneca than anywhere else in the world combined. Seneca's one redeeming feature is that it offers wild exposure on very easy climbs. The only reason I may ever go to Seneca again is to take someone who is new to climbing on Gunsight to South Peak Direct. I recommend just driving the extra 3 hours and going to the New. With respect to climbing in DC, I know many people that take the metro 3 times a week to go to the Rockville gym. Too bad the metro is so poorly run and so expensive as a result. Good luck and don't go to Seneca.

While most of this is kind of true, if you venture to the backside your chances of getting plunked from above by falling water bottles, gear, ropes, rock, etc decrease by at least 50%.

Rafael Rovirosa wrote:People call Seneca a choss pile because it is an enormous choss pile. Seneca is one of the only crags in the country that when you approach it on the highway coming from the New you say "Wow, we are 25 miles out and I can already tell that place is a crumbling, deteriorating, piece of choss." After climbing at Seneca for the first year or so of my trad career, I tapped on every hold to make sure it was good at all the places I went to afterwards. This practice is absolutely necessary at Seneca, but when I realized I didn't have to do that at quality crags, the association of choss with Seneca became permanently cemented. On top of the chossiness, if you climb harder than 10 then you are going to have to go above small gear like brassies and 00 tcus. The grades stop at 12 except for maybe 1 junky sport route that goes at 13. Even worse than not having hard climbs is the unbelievable amount of gumbies. No area in the world attracts as many gumbies as Seneca. If you get to a rappel station and there is even 1 party there you might as well walk down because the party will invariably be a bunch of gumbies that take 2 hours to set a rappel. The gumbies are also very dangerous; they will drop stuff on you, epic on 5s, and make stupid mistakes that someone with 20 years of experience should never make. Seneca gumbies are the worst in that regard; they are not gumbies because they have been climbing for 9 months and want to try trad, they are gumbies because they have been climbing for 20 years and still act like they have been climbing for 9 months. There are more of these "Perma-gumbies" at Seneca than anywhere else in the world combined. Seneca's one redeeming feature is that it offers wild exposure on very easy climbs. The only reason I may ever go to Seneca again is to take someone who is new to climbing on Gunsight to South Peak Direct. I recommend just driving the extra 3 hours and going to the New. With respect to climbing in DC, I know many people that take the metro 3 times a week to go to the Rockville gym. Too bad the metro is so poorly run and so expensive as a result. Good luck and don't go to Seneca.

While much of the above is unfortunately true, not all areas in Seneca are created equal. The east face of the south peak, for instance, is about as clean as they come (ie not chossy).
The stiff grading, small gear, and minimal bolting all act as a deterrent for much of the crag, and can certainly be credited with dragging climbers' egos down along with general opinion of the place. Initially, I hated this place. After returning with a bit more experience with gear and cracks in general, I had a blast.

And yes, you do need to be on supreme lookout for dodgy climbers in this area given the amount of scrambles and moderates leading to the summit. Helmets!

+1 what brian said. I visit seneca often because of the alpinesque environment. Great feel to the place. The west face on south peak isn't bad. Proof is: I've climbed up and down senecas south peak and never once pulled loose rock! The most dangerous area is where ye gods and candy corner are. Avoid there (unless your routes there...) and you'll have a fine time.

There on a crowded day? Learn the keyholes and link ups and there is always something free that you'll like on one face or the other for sure.

Seneca's great if trad climbing is your thing. If you like to clip bolts then NRG is just down the road.

Seneca is fun when it's not raining, hot, or humid, on the annual fine day.

Found this thread because I'm about to move to DC and ugh ... this is not heartening, people!

I lived in Falls Church for about a year and climbed at ET Rockville (I'm a fan, it's a great gym) twice a week in the evenings. It really wasn't bad getting there. I just climbed a little later. Usually it took about 25 minutes in the car.
I always enjoyed Carderock and Great Falls. While they are not awesome, you'll get a good workout, meet some great people and enjoy the scenery. There is good movement to be had, and your footwork WILL improve.