NC info Falcons, book, routes

Planning a trip to NC around first week of April. We are looking at hitting up most areas within 2.5 hours of ashville. What are the peregrine closures like around that time?

Also what are the must do routes up to 10c(trad)?

Best guidebook?

Check the Carolina climbing coalition website for closure information. As far as I know, any destination that has closures will still have plenty of open sections to climb.

Selected Climbs in North Carolina is the only book in print that I'm aware of. You can get it for like 25 bucks new. Combine that with the mountain project app for a smart phone and you should be set pretty well for most places.

I just recently made my first trip into NC at Table Rock in Linville Gorge. The best thing I got on was the first pitch of Slippin' into Darkness. It was a great moderate dihedral / flake / crack climb.

RyanR wrote:Planning a trip to NC around first week of April. We are looking at hitting up most areas within 2.5 hours of ashville. What are the peregrine closures like around that time? Also what are the must do routes up to 10c(trad)? Best guidebook?

This time of year you have most of the winter options available. Rumbling Bald, Laurel Knob, Whitesides, Crowders, Shortoff, Stone Mountain, Sun Wall and South Face of Looking Glass. The list for 10c trad would be long for those places. I suggest trying the search function at the bottom of the main page of mountain project. You can narrow your search to location, grade, and quality. Rumbling Bald is probably the most consistently available place this time of year because of how fast it dries and how sun it stays. The only bird closures at the places listed above would be Shortoff, Whitesides, and LG, but the LG stuff is out of season, Shortoff stuff is obscure, and Whitesides is out of the 10c range.

The NC Select as mentioned above is the only guide. Make sure you get the most recent one since it includes Laurel Knob and some updates on anchors and things.

Thanks, as for the routes I was looking for peoples opinions on the must do routes.

TomCaldwell wrote: This time of year you have most of the winter options available. Rumbling Bald, Laurel Knob, Whitesides, Crowders, Shortoff, Stone Mountain, Sun Wall and South Face of Looking Glass. The list for 10c trad would be long for those places. I suggest trying the search function at the bottom of the main page of mountain project. You can narrow your search to location, grade, and quality. Rumbling Bald is probably the most consistently available place this time of year because of how fast it dries and how sun it stays. The only bird closures at the places listed above would be Shortoff, Whitesides, and LG, but the LG stuff is out of season, Shortoff stuff is obscure, and Whitesides is out of the 10c range. The NC Select as mentioned above is the only guide. Make sure you get the most recent one since it includes Laurel Knob and some updates on anchors and things.

Just to clarify - you know he is going in April, and not January, right? I haven't spent an April in NC in a long time but I'd think a lot of those places would be too hot. When I lived there, April + NC = shade.

Sorry, didn't see the April part. You can pretty much go any where in April with the right conditions. You will probably just have to check the weather to see the temperature for each area. It will help having the guide book because you can look at the cliff aspects and then decide to chase the sun or shade. No way to predict what will be good since the temperature swings in this part of the country can be drastic. Otherwise, just post up near the date of your trip when the forecast is out and I am sure someone can point you in the right direction. You still shouldn't have to worry too much about the bird closures unless you are trying to get to the NC Wall, which is about the only place that has 10c and below trad routes affected by bird closures. Good luck!

As far as closures near NC Wall, does that include the Amphitheater (specifically, The Prow)? I know it would be hella cold this weekend but I might be dumb enough to go anyway.

carolinaclimbers.org/linvil…

Brian Hudson wrote:As far as closures near NC Wall, does that include the Amphitheater (specifically, The Prow)? I know it would be hella cold this weekend but I might be dumb enough to go anyway.

No--the amphitheater is not considered part of NC wall. I went last year and found many other climbers there.

I wouldn't go unless it was going to be sunny ALL DAY long. The prow is kind of remote to be freezing your ass off...

I'd recommend a day trip to Ship Rock. Nice rock with some great climbs.

5.8 - Hindu Kush (direct start recommended), Boardwalk
5.9 - Airlie Gardens
5.10 - KB Capers, Linn Cove Lullaby, Harpoon

Short approach, small area so it's easy to find your way around.

Chuck Parks wrote:I'd recommend a day trip to Ship Rock. Nice rock with some great climbs. 5.8 - Hindu Kush (direct start recommended), Boardwalk 5.9 - Airlie Gardens 5.10 - KB Capers, Linn Cove Lullaby, Harpoon Short approach, small area so it's easy to find your way around.

When does the parkway reopen?

To Brian Hudson:
The Dump would be an okay place to go now. It gets sun all day. You can find Mike Grimm's book online at fullmantlepress. It is also linked to the Sunken Treasure mainpage, or just search high country cragger. If the website is still down, you can find the guide at a local outfitter store. Shortoff is a great option if you want to be in the gorge. It has sun from noon on and dries fairly quick.

Thanks guys.

I got an older guide book if you want it "Selected Climbs In North Carolina". Free if you want it. pm me your address and I'll ship it out tomorrow.