Dazed and Confused
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.5 from 12 votes
Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | B. Culver, J. Buhl, M. Brown, S. Edwards, 1993 |
Page Views: | 2,311 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Mike Morley on Feb 5, 2006 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Dazed and Confused is the first bolted line encountered as you approach the crag from the Toxic Waste Wall (far left). The route is the longest one on the wall, at around 120'.
Start just right of a gully, and stay on the vertical, crimpy face past 3 or 4 bolts for full value. Bailing off left into the gully drops the difficulty down to 5.8. Move up and left, passing a few more bolts, to gain a ledge. Here's where a little gear comes in handy, as otherwise you'll have to make an unprotected couple of moves right before being able to clip the next bolt. A fall here wouldn't be advised. Use of a long sling off the ledge eases rope drag. Steep, featured face climbing past a few more bolts to the top.
Be extremely careful lowering if using less than a 70m rope!
Start just right of a gully, and stay on the vertical, crimpy face past 3 or 4 bolts for full value. Bailing off left into the gully drops the difficulty down to 5.8. Move up and left, passing a few more bolts, to gain a ledge. Here's where a little gear comes in handy, as otherwise you'll have to make an unprotected couple of moves right before being able to clip the next bolt. A fall here wouldn't be advised. Use of a long sling off the ledge eases rope drag. Steep, featured face climbing past a few more bolts to the top.
Be extremely careful lowering if using less than a 70m rope!
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