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johnthethird
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Dec 27, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2012
· Points: 5
Im headed down to Twall in the new year, and would like to break into 5.10. On the lower end of the spectrum, of course. Anyone have some well protected recommendations? Thanks!
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Paige Marta
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Dec 27, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2010
· Points: 5
Crackattack is fun. A little bit of everything. The crux is higher up and you can get good gear below.
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csproul
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Dec 27, 2012
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Pittsboro...sort of, NC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 330
It's T-wall...crack climbing...aren't they pretty much all well protected?
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RockyMtnTed
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Dec 27, 2012
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2012
· Points: 0
csproul wrote:It's T-wall...crack climbing...aren't they pretty much all well protected? Nope. Guidebook is full of spicy and "ambulance" routes. If you can't give a good answer why bother posting?
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csproul
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Dec 27, 2012
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Pittsboro...sort of, NC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 330
RockyMtnTed wrote: Nope. Guidebook is full of spicy and "ambulance" routes. If you can't give a good answer why bother posting? Well Ted...I was being kind of serious. I don't know T-wall real well, but I've climbed a bunch of the low-mid 10's there and I don't remember any of them being particularly scary. Most all that I remember (Cake Walk, Crack-attack, Finger Lockin Good, Infinite Pursuit, Digital Mabre, Hidden Assets...) were continuous crack systems that protected at will. Maybe you have better contributions?
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M Mobley
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Dec 27, 2012
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Bar Harbor, ME
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 911
I agree csproul, besides all you have to do is use 2 eyes and look at the damn thing. Twall is awesome!
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rock-fencer
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Dec 27, 2012
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Columbia, SC
· Joined Dec 2009
· Points: 265
for well protected stick to the crack routes...for spice go to the arete/face routes...pretty much how it breaks down at T-Wall. Have fun...and make sure to venture past Golden Locks T
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Jeff Mekolites
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Dec 27, 2012
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Atlanta, GA
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 5,250
Here is your list...should keep you busy for a weekend...or two... T Wall East G Gear Cake Walk March Hare Hidden Assets Corner Pockets Crack Attack Precious Orr Peoples Express Days Work Digital Macabre Golden Gloves Centerfold Love Handle Finger Lockin Good PG Gear Stepping Stone Fill in the Blanks Standard Deviation Line Drive (aka Twitterville?) Super Slide The Sweep T Wall West G Gear Open Casket (5.9) Where Lizards Go to Die Hammertime Run with the Horsemen Greener Pastures Turn of the Page Killer Diller/Silver Spurs Heat Vision PG Gear Wiliam Perry Wood Spirit Plus there are a ton of 5.9/5.9+'s that you should add to this list. If you are confident placing gear most/all of these will be plenty safe. Even the PG ones can be made safe (most of the time) with very small cams/nuts.
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Dood
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Dec 27, 2012
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Chattanooga, TN
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 370
Wow Jess put up a great list. There are a handful of climbs (even of lower grades) with sloper unprotectable tops that always sketch me out. Exposed Aggregate 5.8 for example is easy climbing with a cruxy slope finish.
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BirminghamBen
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Dec 28, 2012
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Birmingham, AL
· Joined Jan 2007
· Points: 1,620
Jeff knows. The only "spice" I have EVER encountered at the TWall is on faces or aretes....Margin of Profit, Stepping Stone, etc. The topouts just sort of come with the territory. Everything else sews up....bring a full aresenal.
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willeslinger
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Dec 30, 2012
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Golden, Colorado
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 25
T-Wall is a spanking the first day you head there after climbing elsewhere most the year. But as for 5.8's that are sketchy in a realistically dangerous sense? Bah. A big fall at T Wall doesn't mean sketchiness, gear is the bomb shit on 99% of the routes, so, like DEVO, whip If it's 5.10 and down, there's someone on it when you get there, and the route isn't covered with dirt/lichen, then not being a total dumbass will leave you scratch free on any of your chosen route's falls.
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