The Diving Board
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 58 votes
Type: |
Trad, 3 pitches
Fixed Hardware
(5) |
FA: | Layton Kor, Larry Dalke, 1962. FFA: R. Briggs, J. Erickson |
Page Views: | 13,973 total · 49/month |
Shared By: | Kishen Mangat on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Follow Redguard through pitch 4 (5.8s). Diving Board begins from the pitch four belay of Redguard.
P1. Traverse left across an obvious, black ramp (spotty pro, 5.6) to left side of the pigeon flake. Continue up the left side of the pigeon flake trending slightly right to a modern two-bolt belay anchor.
P2. From here, traverse left across an airy shelf with modest pro and power up into the steep, left-facing dihedral, belay at a modern two-bolt anchor (5.10c, 80 feet).
P3. Head straight up from the belay into an exhilarating hand / fist / off-width crack (5.11a, 80 feet).
It is possible to link pitches on Redguard, and it is also possible to link pitches 2 & 3 on the Diving Board with careful rope drag management.
This climb is fantastic. The position is among the best in the canyon. It is the Naked Edge's redneck cousin (more fun if a little rough around the edges).
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