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BD 5 or 6?

Original Post
Dylan D · · Asheville, NC, USA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 35

i have gear up to BD #4 and i'm wondering which i will get more use out of, the #5 or the 6? i mean, why not just go as big as it goes and get the 6? for use at j tree, indian creek, maybe red rocks and yosemite. will having one or two pieces in these sizes even help me out? or do i need a full big rack (which i'm not about to do) to climb anything ow

Matt Kuehl · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,712

I'd get them both, but if you're reluctant to spend the money see if any other climbers have some to experiment with. If you want to purchase a new cam and are unsure of size then maybe just explore the #5... that width is kinda the "hand crack" of wide (frequently encountered). The #6 is not as needed but still crucial on lots of popular ow climbs. Thinking about what climbs you actually plan to attempt might also contribute to your decision. But, ultimately If you buy them and don't end up using them in one year just sell them and move on...

david doucette · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 25

i just bought the 4, 5, and 6 because gearexpress had them at 25% off. the 6 is really big but i'm glad i got it because most of my climbing is at jtree. if you're on the fence, just get the 5 because that you will use for sure in jtree. you could always get the 6 later.

Sam Stephens · · PORTLAND, OR · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 1,090

Buy whichever (BD or Wild Country) 5 and 6 you can find on here used. If you don't find much use for them, they hold their value better than most cams. Personally I like the WC more, but they have their minor differences that makes one better than the other in certain spots.

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Depends on what yer climbin'....

Nick Zmyewski · · Newark, DE · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 250

I'd get the 6. Better to have a gap in sizing then not be able to go big enough. Usually if the crack fits a 5 there will be a spot nearby for a 4 or 6. (in my experience)

Jesse Morehouse · · CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 1,975

I have both and the 5 has a lot more scratches on it... but, Im no OW master or anything so ymmv.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

the five goes on a lot of classic lines and sometimes things get to stacked hands and you really want to be secure not gently weeping as you keep climbing to a place you can actually put something. However, the same thing goes the other way as well. at least with a five you have good stacks...now a six that's a different beast altogether to be running it out on. you can also try and impress girls with the size of your...units

Andrew Mayer · · Driggs, ID · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 131

If you are only trying to get one, I would recommend going with the #5. I have a single #5 and no #6 and have definitely used my 5 alot more than I have wished/needed a 6.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Buy the pre-C4 no. 5 and you get the best of both worlds. It's like a 5.6 on the new sizing scale.

Disclaimer - I have an unused, pre-C4 #5 I'll sell you.

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

$75 + shipping.

Got wide?

Drew Nevius · · Broken Arrow, OK · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,546
Andrew Mayer wrote:If you are only trying to get one, I would recommend going with the #5. I have a single #5 and no #6 and have definitely used my 5 alot more than I have wished/needed a 6.
I have a old 4.5 (new #5 size) and use it quite a bit, but i've only climbed maybe 1 route where I wish I'd had a #6. Go with the new #5, or maybe that guy's old #5 that he's trying to sell
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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